Grey Whales in Magdalena Bay Mexico

This post will share everything you need to know about grey whale watching in Magdalena Bay Mexico. Find out how you can have an up-close encounter with Baja’s friendly whales.

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Grey whale watching in Magdalena Bay Mexico

There is a magical place on the west coast of Baja California Sur in Mexico, where humans and whales meet in one of the most unique wildlife encounters on earth.

This place is Magdalena Bay.

Each winter, grey whales migrate south to mate and give birth in the warm, shallow waters of the bay. But something else happens here, that draws animal lovers from all over the world.

The grey whales of Magdalena Bay are like no other, and these curious, friendly creatures love to get up close to humans. Allowing us to touch, scratch, and even kiss them and their newborns in the bay.

This experience was one of the main things that drew us to Baja Sur in the first place.

I adore whales and had never seen or heard of any opportunity to interact with them in this way. To touch, and even kiss, a wild whale ethically was mind-blowing to me, and I knew that it was an experience we had to have.

In this post, I’m going to share a complete guide to grey whale watching in Magdalena Bay Mexico, covering everything you need to know to plan your own experience in this special place.

About grey whales

Grey whales (or ballenas grises in Spanish) are a species of baleen whale.

Baleen whales don’t have teeth, but rather a ‘baleen’ which is a bristly plate, made of keratin like our hair and nails. The baleen is a filter system that allows the whales to intake large amounts of water, trap their food and then expel the water. Grey whales are bottom feeders and they eat small shrimp-like crustaceans.

Grey whales can grow anywhere from 12 – 15 metres (40 – 50 feet), and can weigh up to 40,000 kgs (90,000 lbs). On average, grey whales live for around 55 – 70 years.

There are two distinct populations of grey whales, the Eastern North Pacific and the Western North Pacific. The eastern population is a larger, more stable population and is the group that migrates to Mexico annually.

Grey whales are migratory animals, and every year they complete the longest recorded migration of any mammal.

The eastern population travels south for over 16,000 km (10,000 miles) from their feeding grounds in the Arctic to the protected waters of the lagoons on the Pacific Coast of Baja California Sur in Mexico to give birth, mate and raise their calves.

The warm, shallow waters of the lagoons are free from predators such as orcas and sharks, providing safety for new calves. Although it seems hard to believe they would need protection, being born at an average size of 4 metres (15 feet) and weighing around 900 kgs (1,900 lbs).

Friendly whales?

Grey whales inhabit multiple destinations in the Pacific Ocean. From their summer feeding grounds around Russia and Alaska to the west coast of Canada and the United States on their southern migration route.

But in no other place do the whales exhibit the same friendly behaviour they do in the lagoons of Baja.

For reasons unknown, a portion of the grey whale population that visits Baja seeks out interactions with humans.

Known for their curious and playful nature, the whales approach the boats and hang around for hours on end. Scratching along the pangas, spy hopping their heads out of the water for a look at the humans on board, and spouting and splashing.

New mums are even known to push their calves towards the boat, to introduce them to humans and teach them how to interact.

In any wildlife-watching experience, touching the animals is usually a no-go. But in the case of the grey whales, if they approach your boat and you don’t give them a good scratch, or even a kiss, they appear disappointed and disinterested, and will move on to another boat that will!

Scientists can’t really confirm why the whales exhibit these behaviours in Baja. It’s thought the behaviour is generational, passed from one mother to the next. The calves that are born in the bay, and nudged towards the boats, will do the same for their newborns and continue the cycle.

Local fishermen think that because the whales are born in Baja, they are Mexicans and they’re just happy to be on home soil!

History of grey whales

It is remarkable that grey whales so willingly interact with humans considering the troubled relationship between the two species in the past.

Grey whales were hunted to near extinction in the 1800s, with the lagoons in Baja being specifically targeted by European and American whalers.

The grey whale was once known as the ‘devil fish’, for its fierce reaction to the harpoons. The whales used their tails to destroy the boats and left many men injured.

The International Whaling Commission did not start protecting whales until 1946, and there were only 5,000 grey whales left in the Eastern North Pacific.

Despite becoming a protected species, their reputation as the ‘devil fish’ lived on in the lagoons of Baja.

Local fishermen were fearful of the whales and would try to dissuade them from approaching their boats by banging large wooden planks in the water. They were scared the whales would attack and destroy their boats.

However, in the 1970s, the relationship shifted.

The first documented friendly encounter between a grey whale and a human was with a local fisherman in the San Ignacio Lagoon. Don Pachico was trying to get away from a grey whale, who was persistently chasing his boat. No matter which way he turned, the whale was there.

The whale gently rubbed against the side of the panga, and raised its head out of the water right next to Pachico. He apprehensively reached out to pat the whale, and it nudged even closer, looking for more contact.

From this day on, the whales of Baja have maintained close and friendly contact with humans. Their days as the ‘devil fish’ are over, and a healthy and peaceful relationship has flourished between humans and whales.

The dramatic shift in the relationship between these two species is remarkable, and despite the unspeakable actions of our ancestors, these special animals now choose to interact with us.

Where to see grey whales in Baja

While this post will focus primarily on grey whale watching in Magdalena Bay, there are actually three lagoons that the grey whales visit in Baja:

• Laguna Ojo de Liebre (Ojo de Liebre Lagoon, also known as Scammon’s Lagoon)
• Laguna San Ignacio (San Ignacio Lagoon)
• Bahia Magdalena (Magdalena Bay)

Ojo de Liebre and San Ignacio are both located in the northern part of the state.

Ojo de Liebre is close to the large town of Guerrero Negro, whilst the San Ignacio lagoon is more isolated, near the small town of the same name.

They are both part of the Reserva de la Biosfera El Vizcaino (El Vizcaino Biosphere Reserve), a UNESCO World Heritage protected terrestrial and marine reserve.

Magdalena Bay is located much further south than the other two lagoons. This makes it easily accessible from the state’s capital, La Paz and the popular tourist destination, Loreto. It’s even possible to visit from Cabo on an overnight trip.

There is a perception that San Ignacio is the ‘best’ lagoon for grey whale watching in Mexico. But there isn’t really any evidence to support that the whales there are friendlier.

Although it is confirmed that the whales arrive earlier and leave later in the northern lagoons, being closer to their summer home in the Arctic.

Unless you’re driving the entire Baja Peninsula from the US border, Magdalena Bay is the most accessible lagoon.

We personally visited Magdalena Bay and felt that we got the magical Baja grey whale experience, and didn’t miss out on anything by not going to San Ignacio.

About Magdalena Bay

The southernmost of the three grey whale lagoons, Magdalena Bay is a 50 km (31 mi) bay, sheltered from the Pacific Ocean by two sandy barrier islands, Isla Magdalena and Isla Santa Margarita.

The protected waters and mangrove ecosystem are a haven for a variety of marine life, offering a calm and sheltered refuge from the ocean, rich with nutrients and food sources.

Magdalena Bay is located in the central-southern area of the state of Baja California Sur.

Driving distances from other destinations:

• 🚗 Loreto to Magdalena Bay: 2.5 hours
• 🚗 La Paz to Magdalena Bay: 3.5 hours
• 🚗 Cabo to Magdalena Bay: 5.5 hours

There are a handful of port towns along the bay, providing a jump-off point for boats:

• Puerto Adolfo Lopez Mateos: this is the most northern port town in the bay, and is one of the busiest. A number of tour operators use this town as the departure point for their whale watching tours.

• Puerto San Carlos: this port town is in the central area of the bay, and is the departure point for the popular tour operator, Magdalena Bay Whales. This is where we departed from.

• Puerto Chale: the southernmost port town, generally much quieter than the other two ports, but some tour operators do use this port as their departure point.

Which port town you end up in will depend on which tour operator you choose.

If you’re taking a day or overnight trip from somewhere like Loreto, La Paz or Cabo, the port town will be arranged for you, and it’s not really important which one you’re departing from.

But if you’re transporting yourself to the bay for a multi-day experience, you’ll need to understand where your chosen tour operator is based.

How to get to Magdalena Bay

You can get to Magdalena Bay several ways:

• 🚐 As part of your whale watching tour: if you book a tour departing from a neighbouring town (most commonly Loreto, La Paz or Cabo), transport will be included. If you’re coordinating a tour with a local operator in Magdalena Bay (like Magdalena Bay Whales) you can choose to add on transport if you need it.

• 🚗 By rental car: if you’re driving yourself around Baja, it’s a relatively easy drive from neighbouring destinations. However it is quite a long distance from anywhere, so we would suggest allowing for a couple of nights in the area, rather than trying to cram in a very long day trip.

• 🚌 By bus: it is possible to get to Mag Bay via the Aguila bus that runs around the peninsula. You’ll need to work out which port town you want to head for (usually Lopez Mateo or San Carlos), as this will dictate where you get off the bus. Each of these towns has a ‘twin’ city along the main highway.
  
  For Lopez Mateo, take the bus to Ciudad Insurgentes. For San Carlos, disembark at Ciudad Constitucion. It’s around an hour from either city to its respective port town. There should be local colectivos or taxis around, or you can coordinate transport with your whale watching company.

When can you see whales in Magdalena Bay?

The whales migrate south from the Arctic for the winter, and they usually arrive in Magdalena Bay in late December or early January. Pregnant females, and females looking to mate at the first to arrive, with males following a bit later.

February is considered the best month to visit, with the highest number of whales present, and also when the babies are usually born.

We visited in late January and into the first day of February. We saw plenty of whales, but there were no babies just yet.

The whales generally hang around until March, or sometimes April.

It’s important to remember that these are wild animals, and they don’t necessarily run on the same schedule each year!

Grey whales are reliable in their migration, but it’s always best to keep an open line of communication with the operators on the ground. They are closely awaiting the arrival of the whales, and keeping an eye on how many are around the bay.

For the best chance of seeing whales (and babies!), plan your visit for February.

This also coincides with blue whale season in nearby Loreto, and humpback whale season in Cabo, so you can easily combine all these whales!

Tour operators in Magdalena Bay

As I mentioned above, the tour operator you choose will depend on the type of experience you’re looking for.

👉🏼 A PRE-ORGANISED DAY OR OVERNIGHT TRIP FROM ANOTHER DESTINATION (LORETO, LA PAZ, CABO)

💡 FOR YOU IF:

• You’re short on time and only have a day or overnight to spare on seeing the grey whales
• You don’t have a rental vehicle
• You’re based in one destination and aren’t really moving around the state

💰 Single day tours from Loreto or La Paz starting from $180 USD, overnight tours from Cabo starting from $600 USD

In this case, the operator provides the convenience of transporting you to and from the bay.

Generally, these operators are based in other cities and will contract local boatmen in Magdalena Bay to facilitate the tours. 

Being based elsewhere, it’s important you select an operator that advertises the use of local captains for the tour, so you get the benefit of local expertise from someone who is in the bay, day in and day out.

👉🏼 A SINGLE OR MULTI-DAY TOUR WITH AN OPERATOR IN MAGDALENA BAY

💡 FOR YOU IF:

• You have a few days to dedicate to whale watching in Magdalena Bay
• You want an extended, deep and meaningful experience with a local company
• You have your own transport or are using the Aguila bus to travel the peninsula
• You’re already travelling around the state on a road trip or multi-city itinerary

💰 Single day tours departing Mag Bay starting from $100 USD, multi-day inclusive packages starting from $650 USD

If you’re looking for a more immersive experience, it’s best to book directly with a local operator in Magdalena Bay.

In most (not all) cases, the tours run by operators in town are much more customisable, and in many cases private.

Most companies in town will offer inclusive experiences, with whale watching, accommodations and meals.

This option works best for people travelling around the state with their own rental car, or via bus on a multi-city itinerary. If you’re moving around already, you may as well make Magdalena Bay a stop for a few days!

This is the option we went with. We had a rental car and were travelling around Baja Sur on an extended road trip. It worked for us to stop in Magdalena Bay between La Paz and Loreto.

We really wanted an extended, multi-day experience with the whales, that felt more than just a side trip from another destination. This was such a highlight for us, that we felt it deserved a dedicated stop on our itinerary.

We can personally vouch for Magdalena Bay Whales. We had an incredible experience with them, and think they are the best option for grey whale watching tours.

They’re a local, family-owned business that has been offering whale watching tours in Magdalena Bay for 45 years, so you know you’re getting unparalleled expertise and experience.

They’re more than just whale watching boats, and have a dedicated and talented staff, offering a comprehensive tour experience with transport, accommodation and meals included.

Their tours are completely customisable, and most of the time, completely private. You choose if you need transport, how many days of whale watching you’d like to do, and if you need accommodation at their hotel in San Carlos or at their whale camp on Isla Magdalena in the bay. Multi-day packages usually include all meals too.

🐋 We did a three day / three night customised tour with Magdalena Bay Whales, staying at their island whale camp in the bay. The entire experience was incredible, and we wrote a detailed post about it

Day trip or stay?

I’ve already touched on this a little, but there are two options when it comes to a grey whale watching tour in Magdalena Bay Mexico:

• A single-day tour
• A multi-day tour

🗓️ SINGLE DAY TOUR

You’ll get one boat tour out on the bay looking for whales. Generally, these run for 2 – 6 hours.

🗓️ MULTI-DAY TOURS

You will spend one or more nights in Magdalena Bay and have multiple opportunities to go whale watching in the bay.

These tours are generally packaged up by local tour operators and include your accommodation and meals.

If you’ve got the time, we 100% recommend a multi-day tour. For so many reasons I’ve already mentioned, but also because the whale’s behaviour is so unpredictable.

On our first day out in the bay, we saw tons of whales, but none of them were really interested in interacting with us. But on our second day, it was a completely different story and we spent hours patting, kissing and playing with whales.

By doing a multi-day tour, you’re giving yourself more opportunities to have those close encounters most of us are seeking!

HOTEL 🏩 OR CAMP ⛺️ ACCOMMODATION?

In the case of Magdalena Bay Whales, you have the choice to stay at their hotel in San Carlos, Hotel Isabela, or their whale camp on Isla Magdalena in the bay.

We spent two nights at the island whale camp, and one night at Hotel Isabela.

The camp is AMAZING! As if the whales weren’t special enough, staying in a glamping tent on a virtually uninhabited island in the bay was the cherry on top. We saw fiery sunrises, dolphins jumping in front of camp, blankets of stars at night, and even the sound of the whales blowing while we slept.

🐳 Read all about our experience staying at the Magdalena Bay Whales camp here

The whale watching experience in Magdalena Bay

The exact experience you have will depend on your tour operator, the style of tour you’re taking, whether it is shared or private, the departure point and of course the whales on the day.

You can expect to board a panga which is the local term for a small, skiff-style boat with an outboard motor. Most comfortably seat 6 – 8 passengers. Some have shade covers, others are exposed.

Once on board, your captain will take you to the area of the bay the whales have recently been sighted in. This could take 30 + minutes.

On the way, you’ll most likely stop at Isla de Patos (Duck Island), an island in the bay home to an astounding number of sea birds. We also stopped by a colony of sea lions lazing on a floating buoy. It’s not common to see large pods of dolphins around the bay too.

Once you arrive in the whale watching area, you might see whales instantly, or you might be waiting a while. They are wild animals, operating on their own schedule.

Given their reliable migration and concentration in a relatively small space, it’s unlikely you’ll have to wait too long. But keep your expectations managed!

Your first sighting of a whale will most likely be a tall plume of mist and water spouting from its two blowholes. Grey whales can spout over 3 metres (12 feet), and it is easy to spot in the calm waters of the bay.

The captains will slowly and safely approach the whale, stopping with plenty of distance to respect the whale and its space. Now, it’s up to the whale!

Pretty soon you will determine if the whale is curious and interested to interact with you. Not all the whales are ‘friendly’ or interested in that moment. Some will continue on their way, fluking their tail indicating a deep dive down.

No one can force an interaction with the whales. They are completely free to move along as they please, and the tightly regulated program prohibits captains from chasing the whales.

If you’re lucky enough to encounter a whale that shows interest in the boat, you need to get their attention! The grey whales respond to splashing on the surface, singing, whistling and waving. Your captain will guide you on how to interact.

The friendly whales approach the pangas, scratch alongside them, and give you a gentle nudge. They ‘spy hop’ sticking their head vertically out of the water to get a good look at you! If one comes right up to the boat, you should lean over to give it a pat or plant a kiss on its head.

If you don’t give the affection and attention they’re looking for, they will appear disappointed, swim away and find another boat that will give them the human love they are seeking!

You might have one whale hang around your boat for hours, or you might continually move around the bay watching and interacting with different whales.

🐋 Read all about our whale watching experience here

Once your time is up, your captain will head back to port. Usually, you will make a stop at the sand dunes on Isla Magdalena, before having lunch either on the island or back on the mainland.

If you’ve got a multi-day tour lined up, you get to do the same thing all over again the next day!

Is touching a grey whale ethical?

Usually touching an animal on a wildlife-watching experience is off-limits. It can stress, frighten or even cause serious harm and disease to animals if they physically interact with humans.

I was hesitant myself when I first heard about the chance to touch and kiss wild whales, and ethical alarm bells went off in my head.

However, the grey whales of Baja are different.

Once you have experienced a whale willingly approaching your boat, sticking its ginormous head out of the water mere centimetres from you, and gazing directly at you, you know it’s by choice.

So long as your captain adheres to the strict regulations set out by the government, does not chase the whales, and the contact is initiated by the whales, touching them is completely ethical.

It’s important to remember that not all the whales, all the time, are seeking physical interaction from humans. You shouldn’t go with the primary motivation of touching or kissing a whale, because it may not happen. They are wild animals, they don’t exist solely for our entertainment, and some days they don’t feel like interacting.

Avoid wearing any sunscreen or other creams or lotions that could transfer from your skin to the whales. Although the risk is low, it’s better to avoid any contamination of the whales or the water.

Another thing to note is that whilst touching the whales is fine, picking barnacles off their skin is not. This can hurt the whales and is not necessary for them. Whales have been living just fine with barnacles and other parasites on their bodies without humans helping to remove them. Please don’t do this.

Final thoughts on grey whale watching in Magdalena Bay Mexico

Having the opportunity to get up close to these incredible creatures is an unforgettable experience and something that I simply can’t put into words!

Interacting with a wild animal, that chooses to approach and connect with you is pure magic, and something everyone should experience once in their lives.

Magdalena Bay Mexico is a special place, and I hope this guide has helped you plan your own grey whale watching adventure.

If you have any questions or I’ve missed anything please drop me a comment below and I will do my best to answer it.

And don’t forget to read our other post, recounting our three-day experience with Magdalena Bay Whales for a more personal insight into what you can expect grey whale watching.

🐋 Looking for more whale encounters?

Baja is blessed with rich seas full of whales and other marine life. We have a dedicated guide to whale watching in Baja California Sur, and you can also read more about seeing blue whales in Loreto, humpback whale watching in Cabo and swimming with whale sharks in La Paz.

MORE MAGDALENA BAY POST

• Grey Whales and Glamping with Magdalena Bay Whales (Our Experience)

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