This post is our travel guide to La Paz Mexico, the underrated capital of Baja California Sur. We’ll share essential travel info like getting there, getting around, where to stay, what to eat and the top things to do in this charming seaside city.
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About La Paz Mexico
If I had to choose one place to go in Baja California Sur, it would be La Paz.
Amazing food, wonderful atmosphere, beautiful beaches, desert mountains, rich oceans – it really does have it all!
The state's capital city, La Paz feels less like a city and more like a large town. It has a friendly, local feel and the waterfront location brings a seaside flavour to the city.
Although La Paz has all the right ingredients for a great holiday destination, it is a far cry from the overdeveloped resort cities of Los Cabos and has remained an off-the-radar, underrated option, skipped over by the bulk of tourists visiting Baja Sur.
Spending time here offers a more authentic Mexican experience, and you can get a much better insight into real life in Baja outside of the resorts.
We spent over two weeks in La Paz, sampling the best fish tacos, exploring stunning beaches, swimming with whale sharks and cycling the Malecon.
In this guide, I'll share everything you need to know to plan your own visit to La Paz.
Top 3 experiences in La Paz
SWIM WITH WHALE SHARKS
⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
ESPIRITU SANTO ISLAND
⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
HIKE, KAYAK AND SNORKEL AT BALANDRA BEACH
⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
Our experience in La Paz
We absolutely loved La Paz!
We're not usually city people, and much prefer to be in smaller towns or natural settings.
But La Paz has got to be one of the best-positioned cities in the world! I have never been to a city that is surrounded by so much pristine nature, right on its doorstep.
One of the world's best beaches is just up the road. The city is orientated towards the beautiful Bay of La Paz and is surrounded by layers of desert mountains of the Sierra de la Laguna.
I guess it helps that it is a small city with a really local feel.
We really enjoyed getting a glimpse into the life of typical Mexican families, compared to Los Cabos, which was full of tourists.
The typical scene in La Paz was of local families out and about together, teenagers skating or having rap battles on the Malecon, and people running or walking their dogs.
The city caters primarily to its residents, and secondly to its tourists, which is how we think it should be!
We had planned to stay in La Paz for 5 – 7 nights, but we ended up spending more than 2 weeks here, using this great city as a base to explore, but also to slow down, catch up on work and rest after some fast-paced travels elsewhere in the state.
Where is La Paz, Baja California Sur?
La Paz is located in the state of Baja California Sur, on the Baja California Peninsula in Mexico.
Situated in the southern part of the state, La Paz is the capital city of Baja California Sur.
This is not to be confused with the city of La Paz in Bolivia! Be careful when searching online to plan your trip, as many results will appear for this South American city.
It is situated on the east side of the peninsula, on the Sea of Cortez (aka the Gulf of California).
To put it in perspective, here are some rough driving distances to La Paz:
- Tijuana: 19 hours
- Loreto: 4 hours
- Los Cabos: 2 hours
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After falling absolutely in love with Baja, I decided to put together a Baja California Sur Travel Guide Ebook to help anyone planning a trip to Baja California Sur.
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Find out more about the guide here.
Getting to La Paz
By air
La Paz has an international airport, LAP – La Paz International Airport, officially the Aeropuerto Internacional Manuel Márquez de León.
The airport mostly serves domestic routes within Mexico. However, if you're coming from the east of the country (Cancun, Merida etc.) you'll most likely need to transit in Mexico City.
A few airlines (Alaska, American) run a handful of routes from cities in the US, such as Los Angeles, Phoenix, Dallas and San Francisco. Most are seasonal.
The SJD – Los Cabos International Airport in Los Cabos is better connected internationally. If La Paz is one part of a broader Baja California Sur trip, you'll probably find more frequent and affordable options from this airport.
Even if La Paz is your only destination, the airport in Cabo is only 2.5 hours drive, so it's worth the trip if it saves you a lot on flights.
🚐 GETTING FROM LA PAZ AIRPORT INTO TOWN
The airport is only about 20 minutes from the centre of town, and taking a taxi is the easiest and cheapest way, if you're not renting a car, which you will collect from the airport.
There is a taxi booth within the airport, with set prices for different hotels. You pay upfront and take your ticket outside to where taxis are waiting, avoiding any unwanted bartering or negotiations.
Uber and DiDi work in La Paz and can supposedly pick you up at the airport. This is always a touchy arrangement though and often rideshare drivers won't enter the airport. Plus, if you're arriving internationally you may not have a local SIM card set up yet.
If you'd prefer to have something pre-booked and not have to worry about navigating foreign currency or Spanish as soon as you land, you can use a private airport shuttle.
🚐 GETTING FROM LOS CABOS AIRPORT TO LA PAZ
If you've flown into Los Cabos but your first destination is La Paz, there are a number of ways to make the 2-hour journey:
- 🚗 Rental car – I will mention more about this below, but we recommend renting a car for your time in La Paz. If you're planning to rent, you can pick up your car at the airport in Los Cabos and drive yourself to La Paz. The trip takes approximately 2 hours on a well-made, safe highway. Browse for rental cars from Los Cabos airport.
- 🚐 Private shuttle – if you're a larger group, or just looking for something quick and comfortable, you can organise a private shuttle from Los Cabos Airport to your accommodation in La Paz. This is a good option.
- 🚐 Shared shuttle – Los Cabos Airport offers shared shuttles between the airport and hotels in the La Paz downtown area. This seems to be a relatively new service and there isn't a lot of feedback. Another option is EcoBaja Tours which is affordable but gets mixed reviews.
- 🚌 Aguila bus – the Aguila buses are comfortable long-distance inter-city buses that travel all over Baja. They run a service from the airport in Los Cabos to La Paz. You can see the schedule and book tickets online here.
By bus
La Paz is well-connected to neighbouring cities around the Baja Peninsula via the Aguila bus.
The buses are new and comfortable long-distance buses, and you can book your tickets online via the Aguila website.
There are two different Aguila bus stops within the city, one on the Malecon and one downtown in Serdan.
By car
If you're driving around Baja California Sur, La Paz is easy to navigate from a number of other popular destinations via well-made highways.
Loreto is approximately 4 hours north, Cabo San Lucas and San Jose del Cabo are around 2 – 2.5 hours, and Todos Santos is 1.5 hours away.
By ferry
It's possible to travel to La Paz via ferry from mainland Mexico.
Baja Ferries runs routes between La Paz and Topolobampo, Sinaloa and La Paz and Mazatlan, Sinaloa.
Both trips are overnight journeys and you can reserve a berth or sleeper seat.
If you're travelling around Mexico by car, this is the quickest way to get your vehicle between the mainland and the Baja Peninsula.
The ferries arrive at the Pichilingue port, about 20 minutes north of La Paz town.
Getting around La Paz
Do you need a car in La Paz Mexico?
You probably would have seen me repeatedly suggest that having your own rental car is the best way to get around Baja California Sur.
Whilst I do strongly believe this, La Paz is probably the one place where you could survive without one.
If La Paz is your only destination in Baja, then you could skip the rental car.
Many of the popular things to do can only be done via an organised tour (e.g. boat-related activities) where you wouldn’t use a car anyway.
The city centre and Malecon are walkable, and you can use taxis, rideshares or the local bus to substitute for any other activities.
By car
In saying this, having a rental car is always going to be the most convenient way to get around, especially if La Paz isn't your only stop in Baja California Sur.
Getting a rental car and road-tripping is by far the best way to see the state. It gives you the opportunity to see all the highlights that aren't as easily accessible outside of La Paz, and a lot more freedom and flexibility within La Paz.
Whilst the city centre is walkable, many of the best beaches are on the outskirts of town, and it's a beautiful place to simply drive around and get lost, with spectacular scenery.
You can pick up a rental car from La Paz if that is your first stop in the state. Or, as I mentioned, you might choose to fly into Los Cabos Airport and drive yourself into La Paz.
🚗 Check prices and availability for rental cars in La Paz here
By foot
The centro and Malecon areas are easy enough to get around on foot.
If you choose a centrally located accommodation, you should be able to walk to all the popular sites within the city, and the best taco spots and restaurants.
You can also rent bicycles, scooters or rollerblades if you want to speed things up a little! We recommend City Bike on the Malecon.
By taxi/rideshare
If walking is getting too hot or too far, there are taxis and rideshares available.
DiDi is starting to dominate Uber as the preferred local option. Rideshare is generally cheaper and easier to order via an app, but taxis are all over the city too.
By bus
La Paz has a limited and complicated local bus system. It's one of the only places in Baja California Sur that does, and we didn't master it ourselves (we had a rental car).
The main bus that is of use to tourists is the Playa Bus, which runs from the La Paz Malecon Bus Station to the beaches out of town like Balandra and Tecolote.
After some intense research, I think I have found the most current timetable. The Playa Bus service is run by EcoBajaTours and you can see a photo of the timetable on their Facebook page.
It only shows the times for one direction, but as far as I understand the bus turns around and returns approximately 45 minutes later.
It's best to pop your head into the bus station on the Malecon for the current times the day before you plan to use the bus as they do change frequently!
The best time to visit La Paz
La Paz has a typical Baja California Sur desert climate with dry, warm winters and scorching summers.
Although there is little rain year-round, the driest season and best time to visit is between November – April.
These are the cooler winter months that experience mostly dry, sunny days with blue skies and pleasant temperatures. The only drawback of winter is that the water temperature can be cool (approx. 68°F / 20°C), and there are occasionally strong northerly winds that can interfere with boat trips.
May – July can still be a good time to visit La Paz if your main focus is on swimming and water activities. Do know that the temperatures can soar well over 95°F (35°C).
The wettest months are typically August – October, but it doesn't rain heavily every year. Hurricanes and large storms generally only hit every few years.
If you're anything like us, you'll be planning your trip to La Paz around all the amazing wildlife encounters you can have. These are the seasons to keep in mind:
- 🐋 Whale sharks – 1 October – 30 April, however, the season can start late pending government announcements.
- 🦭 Sea lions – September – May. Swimming is banned during June, July and August for the breeding season.
How long to spend in La Paz
With so many things to do in La Paz, you could easily spend at least a week here.
It depends if La Paz is just one part of a broader Baja California Sur itinerary or the sole destination for your vacation.
I would definitely suggest no less than 5 nights minimum in either case.
One day to be spent at Isla Espiritu Santo, one day at Balandra Beach, one day to do the whale sharks and a day or two to explore the city itself, cycle the Malecon and possibly hit up some of the other beaches.
I think you could easily stretch this to 10 days or even two weeks, with downtime included and possibly some day trips to nearby areas like La Ventana or Todos Santos.
Is La Paz Mexico safe?
Despite not being as well known as the popular tourist destination of Los Cabos, La Paz is perfectly safe.
Safety is subjective, and everyone has their own view on what they consider ‘safe', but as frequent travellers, we felt totally safe in La Paz.
There is such a lovely local vibe here, and we felt welcome and at ease.
Parts of La Paz did feel more like a typical city, with a bit of grunge, some homelessness and a few strange people wandering around. But it was no worse than our home city of Melbourne, and we never felt unsafe, or even uncomfortable.
Basically the further you get from the Malecon, the more likely you are to encounter the scruffy side of the city.
The city of La Paz and their dedicated tourist police want to keep the area safe, clean and welcoming for tourists, and you can feel this effort when you're there.
The city doesn't experience any of the drug-related crime or violence found in other parts of the country. If you take normal safety precautions, you will have a safe and enjoyable time in La Paz Mexico.
The only thing to note in relation to safety is about driving. The traffic rules work quite differently in La Paz, so just be alert and cautious when driving.
I actually got a fine from a traffic policewoman for not correctly following the stop signs. It's a weird system and I've heard of a fair few tourists being fined (read more about it in my driving in Baja post).
The entire process was friendly and not scary or overwhelming. The policewoman was kind and patient and took the time to translate with our then-limited Spanish. There was none of the bribing or corruption you hear about in other parts of Mexico, and I safely went to visit the central police station to pay my fine and be on my way!
Where to stay in La Paz
There is a great range of accommodation options in La Paz Mexico for all budgets.
Whilst you will find resort-style accommodations on the beachfront on the outskirts of the city (such as Hotel Indigo Puerta Cortes or Courtyard by Marriott), we would definitely recommend basing yourself in the city centre.
Anywhere within short walking distance to the Malecon is a great spot, and means you will be at the heart of the action.
Esterito Hostel
If you're looking for a hostel, Esterito Hostel gets great reviews from travellers.
The location is perfect, just steps from the northern end of the Malecon.
The hostel is small and intimate, with just two private rooms and three 6-bed dorm rooms. Each room comes with all the creature comforts, like hot water, air conditioning and wifi.
There is a cute outdoor garden area with a restaurant, and a light breakfast of coffee and fruit is included each day.
🌵 Check prices and book Esterito Hostel on Hostelworld
Casa Canona
We stayed in Casa Canona and absolutely loved this gorgeous complex.
The beautiful old house in La Paz was converted firstly into a café, and more recently four self-contained studio apartments were added.
A family project, two brothers bought the property from their grandmother and have lovingly restored it.
The apartments are beautifully designed and are amazing value at a very affordable price.
Located in downtown La Paz, Casa Canona is within walking distance from the Malecon and all the best restaurants.
🌵 Check prices and book Casa Canona on Booking.com
Casa Canona
Hotel Catedral
One of the most iconic hotels in La Paz, Hotel Catedral is a charming option in the historic centre.
As the name suggests, Hotel Catedral overlooks the cathedral from its gorgeous rooftop pool and patio area. There is a bar on this level shaking up delicious cocktails too!
Rooms are clean, modern and spacious with basic amenities. A buffet breakfast is included, and there are a number of other communal outdoor spaces downstairs too.
🌵 Check prices and book Hotel Catedral on Booking.com | Expedia
Baja Club Hotel
For something a little fancier, the Baja Club Hotel is a relatively new boutique hotel on the Malecon.
Housed in a restored colonial mansion, the hotel features a central courtyard and pool, a restaurant and bar, and a rooftop terrace overlooking the Sea of Cortez.
It has a stunning minimalist design that preserves the building's history with modern touches. Browse the photos, I'm sure you'll be oohing and aahing if you're a design lover.
It would be our top choice if our budget was a little higher!
🌵 Check prices and book Baja Club Hotel on Booking.com | Expedia
Top things to do in La Paz
There are so many amazing things to do in La Paz. So much so that I've got an entire post dedicated to the 25 best things to do in La Paz!
As with all destinations, there are an endless number of activities you can find to fill your days. But if we're talking about the absolutely unmissable, top activities that you can only do in La Paz, here are our top five.
1. Visit Balandra Beach
Frequently crowned as Mexico's best beach, Balandra is actually a bay home to seven different beaches! Sheltered from the Sea of Cortez, these shallow, translucent waters drop at low tide to reveal a pattern of swirling white sandbanks, it's simply stunning.
Floating in these calm waters was a dream, and we also dedicated a few hours of our day to hiking the cacti-covered trails on the hills around the bay for some incredible views.
However, a day at the beach is not as simple as it seems, with strict capacity limits in place to preserve the fragile natural area. Read our Balandra guide for the latest rules and entry times.
🏖️ Hike, kayak and snorkel at Balandra Beach
🏖️ Read our complete guide to Balandra Beach
2. Swim with whale sharks
Baja is home to some incredible marine encounters. None more thrilling than swimming next to the biggest fish in the sea!
Each year between October – April, whale sharks come to feed on nutrient-rich waters in the Bay of La Paz.
You can take a tour with a trained and certified operator to swim alongside these gentle giants.
The program is tightly controlled by the government, and we were impressed with how ethical the experience was.
🐋 Book our recommended ethical whale shark swimming tour
🐋 Read more about swimming with whale sharks in La Paz
3. Boat tour to Isla Espiritu Santo
The jewel in the Sea of Cortez, Isla Espiritu Santo is a UNESCO World Heritage Listed island.
Translating to Holy Spirit Island in English, Espiritu Santo is everything that's good about Baja – crystal clear waters, stunning beaches, a red-hued desert landscape and thriving marine life.
Best known for its colony of playful sea lions, taking a boat tour to the island for the day is a must-do in La Paz.
There are a number of different tours available. Most include snorkelling with sea lions at their colony at Los Islotes, lunch on a pristine beach on the island, and free time to relax, hike some trails, snorkel some more, and on selected tours, go kayaking or SUPing.
🦭 Book your tour to Isla Espiritu Santo
4. Hang out on the Malecon
As with many seaside cities in Mexico, the heart of La Paz is its Malecon, or waterfront promenade.
Running for over 5 km (3.1 mi) along the coast, we spent a lot of our time in La Paz hanging out on the Malecon. It's a great place for a stroll, a run, people watching and just generally soaking up the atmosphere.
Spot the statues and artwork, take your photo in front of the iconic La Paz letters and don't miss an evening sunset! Do as the local families do and enjoy an ice cream from La Fuente, and watch the myriad of street performers, Zumba classes and teenage rap battles!
We also recommend renting a bike for the day from City Bikes and riding the entire length of the Malecon. It ends at Playa El Coromuel in the north, which is a gorgeous beach worth checking out.
Scenes from the Malecon in La Paz
5. Explore the centro
Whilst the Malecon is the undisputed hub of La Paz, the historic centre away from the water is just as worthy of exploring.
It's this part of La Paz that reminds you it is a ‘city', even if it is a small one.
We loved watching talented street performers in Jardin Velasco, admiring the Catedral de Nuestra Señora de La Paz and the pretty white-washed Museo de Arte.
La Paz is also full of colourful and clever street art, depicting the history, society and environment of the area. We spent an afternoon following this self-guided street art map and taking photos of all the murals. My favourites were all the marine life. See if you can find the whale, the dolphins, the multi-colour turtle and the sea lion!
Wandering around the Centro
Beaches in La Paz
Balandra is an extra special beach worthy of its own mention, but there are so many other amazing beaches around La Paz worth visiting, without the crowds!
Here are a few of our favourites:
- 🏖️ Playa El Coromuel is just a short bike ride along the Malecon and has a restaurant on the beach, palapas for shade and bathroom facilities.
- 🏖️ Playa El Tesoro is a short drive north along the coast. This beach feels sheltered inside a bay with shallow waters that stretch for miles, like a mini Balandra. There is a small restaurant on the sand.
- 🏖️ Playa El Tecolote is the closest beach to Balandra, it sits at the northern end of the small peninsula, exposed to the open ocean meaning the waves are a little rougher here. The beach is lined with restaurants, lounges and palapas and feels the most developed.
- 🏖️ Playa El Saltito is a different alternative, and all the locals we met suggested it. Located on the east of the peninsula, this beach isn’t protected by the Bay of La Paz and the waves here are strong. But the scenery is incredible, the beach is quiet and the drive here through the mountains is stunning.
Sustainable travel in La Paz
Most of the best things to do in La Paz involve nature and wildlife. For this reason, it’s really important to do your research when selecting a tour company to book with.
Whether you’re swimming with whale sharks, paddleboarding around Balandra Bay or diving with sea lions, you want to know the company respects the environment and wildlife and follows all rules and regulations.
Take the time to read tour operators’ websites. Check if they have environmental policies and rules. Do they try and reduce waste? Do they have restrictions on interactions with wildlife? It’s easy to get a gut feeling about whether the operator is prioritising the environment or prioritising profits.
Where to eat in La Paz
La Paz has some delicious food options that are very very affordable compared to the more touristy places in Baja. The tacos here are top-notch, and the seafood doesn't get much fresher!
Asadero Rancho Viejo
If you're looking for steak tacos, you can't go past Asadero Rancho Viejo.
Cooked fresh to order on a grill on the street out the front of the restaurant, you smell it before you see it.
This was my first introduction to arrachera tacos. Arrachera translates as skirt steak, which differs from the more popular carne asada which can be any kind of grilled beef. It is so melt-in-your-mouth delicious, that we went back three times!
📍 See the location and opening hours here
Mc-Fisher
La Paz has a reputation for amazing fish tacos. But as for where does them best, it's up for debate.
Mc-Fisher is a top contender though and serves up not just fish but a diverse range of seafood tacos. They have prawn, octopus, clam, scallop, oyster and more!
You get a tray of salads and salsas delivered to your table and can create your own delicious tacos.
📍 See the location and opening hours here
Tacos de Pescado El Estadio
Another contender for best fish tacos in La Paz, El Estadio doesn’t look like much from the outside.
Just a simple street stall, you first need to line up and order from one of two options – pescado (fish) or camaron (shrimp). Both are typical Baja-style battered, crispy on the outside and light and fluffy on the inside.
You then take your handwritten ticket to the grill, where your harina (flour) tortillas will be lightly toasted and seafood dished up.
Finally, you can head for the salad bar, with a huge array of all types of sauces, spicy and creamy, and a big range of all kinds of salads and vegetables.
These were our favourite fish tacos in La Paz, and well worth a try!
📍 See the location and opening hours here
Tacos de la Monarka
Tacos de la Monarka is a hidden gem, tucked away a few streets back from the busy Malecon.
This was the first place we ever tried a papa rellena which is basically the Mexican version of a baked potato. Topped with all kinds of goodies, and a meat of your choice.
We got ours with carne asada, and it was absolutely mouth-watering. Cheesy potato, soft meat, and all the salsas and salads on top, ahh I'm drooling just writing about it!
The tacos here are great too, with classic options like al pastor and carne asasda.
📍 See the location and opening hours here
Doce Cuarenta Coffee & Bakery
For good coffee in La Paz, head to Doce Cuarenta.
This café and bakery is housed in a large, industrial-style building and gave us big Melbourne vibes. The perfect spot for digital nomads to spend a few hours working away on their laptops.
They roast their coffee on-site, and you'll get a whole lot more than just an Americano.
All the pastries are absolutely delicious, but if you're hungry for a meal they have some yummy sweet and savoury brunch options.
📍 See the location and opening hours here
La Fuente Heladeria
If there is one thing La Paz locals love, it's ice cream. And La Fuente is at the heart of this obsession!
Sitting right on the Malecon, this ice cream shop has a line out the door at all hours of the day.
They have all kinds of flavours to choose from, both nieve (ice cream) and paletas (icy poles/popsicles).
Grabbing an ice cream and watching the sunset from the Malecon is a quintessential La Paz experience!
📍 See the location and opening hours here
Final thoughts on La Paz Mexico
La Paz is one of the loveliest cities we visited in Mexico. Despite being a ‘city', it retains a friendly, local feel that isn't overrun by tourism.
Whether you're enjoying the atmosphere on the Malecon, lazing on a beautiful beach or taking to the water to swim with whale sharks or sea lions, there really is something for everyone in La Paz.
Don't miss the capital on your next Baja Sur trip and be sure to check out our things to do in La Paz post for more amazing outdoor adventures in and around the city.
OUR BAJA CALIFORNIA SUR TRAVEL GUIDES
The Comments
Paul Michelson
Thanks. Thorough and very helpful.
Sally Rodrick
Paul MichelsonSo glad it was helpful Paul, thanks for taking the time to let me know. Enjoy La Paz!