East Cape Baja Travel Guide: Remote & Unspoiled Paradise

Want to visit East Cape Baja but can’t find any information online? This guide shares everything you need to know about visiting the remote and unspoiled Cabo Este (East Cape) region of Los Cabos, a glimpse of old-school Baja paradise.

This article may contain affiliate / compensated links, that may earn me a small commission, at no extra cost to you. For full information, please see our disclaimer here. While all efforts have been taken to ensure the information included in this post is correct and current, travel information such as opening hours, business operations and prices change frequently. If you find anything in this post that is incorrect or outdated please let me know in the comments so I can update it for other readers.

About East Cape Baja

The East Cape is an undiscovered region in Baja California Sur, Mexico.

Tucked away in the southeast area of the state, it forms part of the Los Cabos municipality, but feels worlds away from the popular tourist hubs of Cabo San Lucas and San Jose del Cabo.

Despite being just a few hour’s drive from one of Mexico’s biggest resort cities, the East Cape has remained largely unspoiled and remote.

Pristine and untouched desert landscapes practically fall into the Sea of Cortez, and a long, bumpy, unpaved entry road has kept the development of this area at bay.

If the busier and overtouristed areas of Los Cabos aren’t your scene, you will love the East Cape.

Where is East Cape Baja

Officially, the East Cape or Cabo Este region encompasses a large stretch of coastline that follows the road of the same name, Camino Cabo Este.

Starting from the San Jose del Cabo marina in the south (Puerto Los Cabos), and stretching east all the way around the tip of the peninsula to La Ribera in the north.

La Ribera and Cabo Pulmo at the northeastern end of the road have developed into popular destinations in their own right. An awful Four Seasons development in La Ribera called Costa Palmas has put the town on the map, while the scuba diving mecca of Cabo Pulmo attracts divers from all over the world.

There is plenty of information available online about visiting these towns, so that’s not what I’m going to be talking about here when I say ‘East Cape’.

The stretch of beautiful, undeveloped coastline along the southern part of the peninsula, between San Jose del Cabo and Los Frailes (the start of the Cabo Pulmo area), is a glimpse of old Baja, with a desert-meets-ocean landscape and special rhythm.

For the purpose of this post, I refer to the East Cape as the area stretching east from the San Jose del Cabo Marina (Puerto Los Cabos) to Los Frailes, a bay bordering Cabo Pulmo.

This includes towns (I say ‘towns’ very loosely, and really it is more just the name of the beaches in the vicinity!) such as Zacatitos, La Fortuna, Nine Palms and La Vinorama along Camino Cabo Este (East Cape Road).

🔔 2024 UPDATE: in the past few years, La Fortuna has grown into a proper ‘town’. There are multiple accommodation options, 5+ restaurants and beach bars, and a little store. This is the unofficial hub of the East Cape region.

Our experience

We were drawn to this area after discovering the boutique eco-wellness retreat, The White Lodge.

But when looking online for information about this string of deserted beaches, we found nothing.

This part of Los Cabos feels like a secret, only open to those in the know.

We found ourselves confused as large seaside mansions appeared in what felt like the middle of the desert. Seeing groups of holidaymakers dine together in one of only a handful of restaurants, and rows of cars lined up on beaches with surfboards and fishing gear laid out around them.

We constantly asked ourselves, what is this place? What are these people doing here? How do they know about this? It felt like a club that we weren’t part of because we had no insight or information on this raw and wild place.

I guess that’s how it used to feel travelling before the age of the internet and social media. Arriving somewhere with no preconceived notion of the area. Going in blind and working it out as you go.

It was a strange feeling but we were completely captivated by the East Cape, and we wanted to be let in on the secret of this stunning stretch of coast on the dazzling Sea of Cortez.

I adored everything about this area.

The wild donkeys wandering along the road, the neverending vista of blue, the untouched coastline and the rugged desert vibe. The whales splashed offshore, the sunrise and sunsets turned the sky soft and golden and the total peace and serenity was everything good about Baja.

Even after visiting the area, we still feel we haven’t quite gotten a grasp on it. However, we do know more than we did before we visited, and in this guide, I hope I can provide some practical information that helps if you want to visit ‘that area to the east’.

Camino Cabo Este (East Cape Road)

People might not know anything about the East Cape area, but most visitors to Baja are familiar with the infamous Camino Cabo Este (East Cape Road).

A notoriously long, bumpy, dusty road that is the only access point to this remote region.

Known as being one of the worst roads in Baja, wary travellers are deterred from visiting this area, for fear of damaging rental cars or not making it through the many potholes and corrugations.

The majority of the road is unpaved, with bone-rattling bumps and vibrating washboard corrugations. But don’t let that deter you!

Driving along this road was one of the highlights of our Baja California Sur road trip, and the scenery will leave you speechless at every turn. From expansive vistas of the glistening blue Sea of Cortez to the layers of textured mountains of the Sierra de la Laguna mountain range.

We were in awe the entire time, and it was worth every bump, shake and rattle.

Transport options

You really need your own vehicle to see the best of the area.

These days it is possible to base yourself in the small town of La Fortuna, organise airport transfers with your accommodation and be able to walk to a few restaurants, a small minimart and the beach.

But you’d be restricted to where you can walk, unless your accommodation offers ATV rentals. There is no public transport, no taxis, no Ubers. Neighbouring beaches and ‘towns’ are not close.

Plus, the drive here is half the fun and adds to the unique, old-school Baja experience of the East Cape.

Camino Cabo Este road conditions

So how bad is this road? Well, it depends.

If there has been any recent rain or storms, the road can get very washed out, and become impassable with anything other than a high clearance 4×4.

However, the road is graded semi-regularly and it’s generally repaired quickly if there has been major damage.

So most of the time, assuming you’re not visiting after heavy rain, you can drive the Camino Cabo Este in a standard car.

It is incredibly bumpy, with sections of soft sand, huge potholes and long periods of washboard corrugations.

If you’re a confident driver, not a worry wart (like me!) and take it slow it is possible without a 4×4. Dozens of 2WD vans ply the road each winter to camp up on the remote beaches.

The higher the clearance, the better though. If you’re renting, you should confirm with your rental company if they will allow you to drive on this road. Many won’t and your insurance will be void.

Just because you could technically do it in a regular car, I would urge you to consider renting a 4×4. With a solid, reliable offroad vehicle you can drive the entire stretch of road, drive through the sandy arroyos and onto the beach if you wish, with no worries.

We rented a 4WD Jeep Wrangler (from Cactus Rent A Car – highly recommend) for the duration of our time in Baja and we are so happy we did. It made the drive much more comfortable, and we weren’t worried at all about damaging the car.

🚙 The conditions of the Camino Cabo Este change quickly and frequently. The most reliable way to confirm if it is safe to pass (especially in a standard vehicle) is to get in contact with your accommodation (or a restaurant or other business in the area) to get the latest update before making the trip.

Navigating Camino Cabo Este (East Cape Road)

One road to access the whole East Cape sounds simple, right? You can’t get lost following just one road.

Wrong.

I think part of what makes this part of Baja so mysterious is the confusion about how to access it. Google Maps says one thing, but your accommodation provider will say another, and Waze has a different route entirely. Whaaaa?!

The confusion is mainly if you are coming from the south (San Jose del Cabo, Cabo San Lucas, Los Cabos Airport etc.). If you are approaching from the north (La Paz, La Ventana, Los Barriles etc.) it is more straightforward.

We arrived from the south, but I will provide a rundown of how to access the East Cape from both directions.

📣 2024 UPDATE: Google Maps seems to have finally fixed up their suggested route, and show the correct location of Camino Cabo Este. If you put your East Cape destination in the map, you should get the correct route. If your suggested route looks like the picture below, you’re good to go. However, I have kept my detailed instructions below, just in case!

From San Jose del Cabo/Cabo San Lucas

Before we left San Jose del Cabo were so confused and had no idea where we were supposed to go.

As with many remote areas around Baja, Google Maps can get a little vague and things marked as ‘roads’ can often be inaccessible. So we wanted to make sure before we started the journey we knew exactly where to go, as there is no phone service once you leave San Jose del Cabo.

I’m glad we mapped it out in advance as we did go the right way, though no thanks to the maps on our phone.

I’m going to include some screenshots here from Google Maps to explain what you are going to see, and which route you should follow.

I will use San Jose del Cabo as the starting point. Even if you are coming from Cabo San Lucas or the SJD Los Cabos International Airport, you will pass through San Jose del Cabo. I’ll use The White Lodge as an example destination, but this applies to any of the small towns, beaches, hotels and Airbnbs around this area.

Depending on where you are staying, you might get a suggested route that takes you north and around. Don’t follow this. I don’t have any idea what this road is, but it’s not paved and if you’re going to follow a non-paved road – you want it to be the incredibly scenic Camino Cabo Este.

You might even get a suggestion to go aaaaall the way around via Highway 1 and come into the area via Cabo Pulmo. This is not necessary, and it will be a very long detour. Although the road coming this way is paved until just before Cabo Pulmo, you can’t avoid a bumpy journey – you’re just changing which part of the bumpy road you experience!

🔔 Don’t follow any routes that take you very north, away from the coastline

The alternative route offered by Google Maps is closer, but still not correct. This is where it starts getting ultra confusing.

If you look closely at the roads on the map, you will see Google Maps shows two Camino Cabo Este roads.

The route Google suggests takes you out of San Jose del Cabo via East Cape Road (I don’t know why it alternates between an English and Spanish label but it does!). This road is all paved.

Then it cuts south to direct to you East Cape Beach, and along the coastline from there. This is wrong.

The road will no longer be paved, and the section of road after East Cape Beach to the next beach of Zacatitos is almost impassable because it is so rocky.

Although the road will get bumpy, it is not this bad, and you do not need to divert from the paved road so soon.

🔔 Do not follow the Google Maps route that directs you to the coast at East Cape Beach

You need to either use Waze, which usually spits out the correct route or navigate yourself and I will tell you how.

Before Google tells you to turn right towards East Cape Beach, the road you are on IS Camino Cabo Este. It is paved, and very easy to drive on. You just need to stay on this road.

It will remain paved for around 20 minutes or so. Then as you see on the map, the road curves and connects back to the coast around the town of El Cardon.

From there, you just follow the road until you arrive at your accommodation. The road is unpaved from here on out and can be very bumpy but it is completely doable and nothing too hairy or difficult (pending good weather conditions).

Following this route means you stay on the paved road for as long as possible.

This paved road is a replacement for the original coastal section, which was bought out by resort developers and now hosts obnoxious all-inclusives.

🔔 Follow the paved Camino Cabo Este out of San Jose del Cabo until it curves and turns unpaved

From La Paz/La Ventana/Los Barriles

If you are approaching East Cape Baja from the north, the route is much simpler and less confusing. Google Maps will get you there correctly.

I will use Los Barriles as an example, because if you are coming from La Paz or La Ventana (or any other northern destination) you will pass through here. And again using The White Lodge as an example destination, but this will apply to any destination in the area.

You will follow Highway 1 out of Los Barriles, and turn off at Camino Cabo Este near a little town called El Campamento.

From there you literally just follow the same road all the way. The road will be paved until a short distance past La Ribera. From there it turns unpaved, and you will bump your way into Cabo Pulmo.

I would highly recommend including Cabo Pulmo as a stop on your trip, and spending a few days here first.

From there, continue on Camino Cabo Este to your next accommodation. It’s pretty tricky to get lost and there is just one road to follow with no other diversions or incorrect directions.

Things to do in East Cape Baja

The best thing to do in the East Cape is absolutely nothing! People are drawn here for complete tranquillity, beautiful beaches and a completely different atmosphere to the busier areas of Los Cabos. There are a few things to keep you occupied throughout your stay if you can’t sit still for too long though.

Beaches

One of the main drawcards of this area is the beaches.

Many of the beaches around the Los Cabos area are not swimmable, due to strong currents and rips from the Pacific Ocean. But in the East Cape, in the Sea of Cortez, many beaches are calm and perfect for swimming.

This is mainly during the off-surf season, from November to March (the waves pick up in the summer months).

As you drive along Camino Cabo Este, you pass many entrances to different beaches. Some of the more popular beaches are Shipwrecks, La Fortuna and Nine Palms, but honestly, just find somewhere quiet and pull in – they’re all stunning!

You can drive your car right onto the beach and park up for the day (another benefit of having a 4WD). So choose a beach you like the look of, and enjoy!

You’re likely to have it all to yourself, which is a far cry from the tourist-filled Medano Beach in Cabo San Lucas. Many of the accommodation options in the area have beach umbrellas and chairs you can borrow.

Surfing

The swell in the East Cape attracts surfers from all over the world!

Between April and October each year, surfers flock to Shipwrecks, La Fortuna and Nine Palms.

Some accommodations may be able to organise board rental, but check in advance and consider bringing your own board if you’re mad keen.

If you’re a beginner and you’re keen to learn, you can organise lessons with La Fortuna Surf School. I would suggest contacting them prior to your visit.

Watch the sunrise

The location of East Cape Baja means you can experience incredible sunrises over the Sea of Cortez. Practically anywhere along the coastline will offer a great vantage point.

We loved starting our day watching the sun come up over the ocean with whales playing on the horizon.

Whale watching

If you visit in the wintertime (December – March), you are almost guaranteed to spot humpback whales on their annual migration.

We visited in early January, and there were hundreds of them on the horizon! We spotted them as we were driving, as we were eating meals at Azul Cortes, and from the amazing yoga deck at The White Lodge.

You don’t need to get out on the water to see them, they are easy to spot even if you’re not on the beach. We watched them splashing, breaching, blowing water from their blowholes and playing the entire time we were in the East Cape.

If you want to get closer to the whales on a boat, I think it is possible to organise a local fisherman to take you out. There are no formal tours as such in this area, but if you check in with your accommodation they can probably organise something.

Keep in mind, that it will probably be expensive as you will be paying for the whole boat, not as an individual on a tour.

🐋 Baja California Sur is one of the best places in the world for whale watching. Check out our whale watching guide here, sharing how, where and when you can see humpback whales, grey whales, blue whales and whale sharks.

Do nothing

The beauty of East Cape Baja is that there is very little to do.

The best thing to do here is nothing. Relax, and soak up the incredible views and peaceful surroundings.

We spent our days doing yoga, wandering along the beach, watching the whales play offshore and reading books by the beautiful pool at The White Lodge. Look up at the stairs at night, sleep to the sound of the waves.

It felt like an entirely different world from the constant thrum of music and rowdy tourists of Cabo.

If you’re looking for activity after activity, you won’t find it here. But that’s why many people fall in love with this area, including us!

Snorkel or dive at Cabo Pulmo

The Cabo Pulmo National Marine Park is a world-famous snorkelling and diving destination, and one of the only coral reefs on the western side of North America.

We stayed in Cabo Pulmo and treated it as a new destination entirely, but it is very possible to do a day trip from the East Cape.

From where we stayed at The White Lodge, it took around an hour to reach Cabo Pulmo. There are many different operators offering dive or snorkelling tours. Check out our post on Cabo Pulmo here for more information.

Where to eat in East Cape Baja

Dining options are limited, and sometimes unreliable with opening hours. Hours can change between winter and summer and often published hours are not adhered to! The few hotels in the area are the most reliable options for meals, particularly dinner.

However, in the past year, a few new places have opened around La Fortuna and the village here has become a central hub for accommodation and dining in the East Cape. You should find something open here every day of the week.

Book ahead if you’re visiting in the peak season (December – January).

If you want to cook, first check your accommodation has kitchen facilities, many don’t.

If it does, stock up on groceries in San Jose del Cabo (or La Ribera if you’re coming from the opposite direction). There is only a very small supermarket, selling mainly canned/packet things like bread, coffee, beer, chips etc. in La Fortuna, Minisuper Rancho.

• 🍔 Buzzards Bar and Grill: located at the start of Camino Cabo Este near San Jose del Cabo, this is a great spot for a feed before you start your bumpy journey into the heart of East Cape Baja. A very popular option with tourists, the menu is a mix of Mexican and American dishes. 📣 2024 UPDATE: Buzzards has been sold, and closed for good on 31 May 2024.

• 🫏 Zac’s Bar and Grill: Zac’s is a great little spot nestled in the small community of Zacatitos.  It’s not beachfront but is located in what feels like the middle of the desert, bar a few houses. You’re likely to see donkeys wandering past as you enjoy your lunch. This is another very popular spot with visitors and resident expat gringos, and the menu offers both traditional Mexican as well as more international offerings like burgers. We can vouch for the burritos, they were affordable and delicious.

• 🍣 Zai Sushi Surf Bar: a beautifully designed, fancy-looking sushi bar was not what we expected to stumble across in East Cape Baja. Zai Sushi Surf Bar is just that. It offers beautiful ocean views in La Fortuna and serves up a range of inventive sushi and sashimi dishes. We tried to eat here for lunch, but unfortunately were turned away as there were no tables at all! This totally baffled us, and again was not what we expected! If you are visiting in peak holiday periods, it’s best to book ahead if you can. Be prepared, the prices are eyewatering.

• 🍕 SHADE at La Fortuna Beach Bar & Grill: a great local spot with epic ocean views, a friendly atmosphere and good food and drinks. They do a good range of Mexican dishes like tacos, ceviche etc. but they’ve also got a wood-fired pizza oven too. They are open 5 days a week and seem like a reliable choice.

• 🌮 Lateral La Fortuna: this new spot opened in late 2023 right on the beach at La Fortuna. From what I understand is the restaurant attached to Point Break Glamping. The reviews have been rave so far, with delicious tacos (try the cauliflower), aguachiles and ceviches and nice drinks. Prices are what you’d expect for the location, and reasonable compared with some of its neighbours. The atmosphere is great, good music, feet in the sand overlooking the ocean, it doesn’t get much better!

• 🎧 Liebre Matrera: located at De La Costa, a small accommodation offering in La Fortuna, Liebre Matrera is a small beach bar that opens on Saturdays and Sundays. There is a small selection of food, beers, cocktails and plenty of good vibes. The owner is a DJ, and often runs special parties and events.

• 🍸 Ozzy’s Beach Bar: another new option on the sand at La Fortuna, Ozzy’s opened in November 2023. They make some delicious and fresh ceviches (including one with mango, yum!) and tasty skewers, with grilled shrimp or meat with vegetables. Their cocktails are excellent, and of course, beachfront views of surfers and whales don’t go astray!

• ☕️ The Baja Station Cafe: a new project on the beach at La Fortuna, this little cafe is an extension of The Baja Station, a new accommodation option just across the road. It still looks like a work in progress, but they are open and serving coffee and smoothies for now, and hosting regular events with live music.

• 🌯 Restaurante La Fortuna: also called ‘the white bus’ or ‘Don Victor’s’ this relatively new spot is off the beach in La Fortuna. An old converted white bus run by a very lovely local man, Victor, who serves up delicious breakfast burritos and excellent coffee in the morning. Come lunch and dinner, there are tacos, burgers and burritos.

• 🍉 Azul Cortes at The White Lodge: the on-site restaurant at The White Lodge, Azul Cortes is a reliable option for breakfast, lunch and dinner daily. The menu has an emphasis on wellness and focuses on using local, in-season produce. There is a variety of Mexican and international dishes on offer, all fresh, light and healthy. The open-air setting with views over the Sea of Cortez is simply stunning, and I would encourage a visit here for a meal even if you’re not staying here.

• 🍝 Crossroads Country Club at VidaSoul: the on-site restaurant at VidaSoul, Crossroads, is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner daily. Known for its live music and DJs on the weekend, the restaurant serves up Mexican, American and Italian cuisine.

Where to stay in East Cape Baja

Forget about all-inclusive resorts, the East Cape has just a handful of boutique hotel-style accommodations available.

There is also a range of holiday houses available on VRBO or Airbnb. They are super pricey and tend to be booked out in advance by American and Canadian expats who spend the winters in Baja. They’re not really suitable or affordable for solo or couple travellers.

Tips for visiting East Cape Baja

This is a very remote area, and it’s important to remember that before you go.

In some places, it doesn’t feel like it at all, with stunning hotels, beautiful mansions and fancy restaurants. But just as quickly as civilisation appears on the horizon, it disappears again.

This is raw, old-school Baja at its finest, and there are a few concessions to be made as a result. But if you’re the type of traveller who is drawn to the East Cape in the first place, you won’t mind at all!

🌿 The remote and undeveloped nature of East Cape Baja makes it a more sustainable tourist destination than neighbouring Cabo San Lucas and San Jose del Cabo. But, it’s important to remember that the area is fragile, and there are not the same level of amenities. If we as travellers can be content with the basics, the area can remain relatively pristine. But if we demand air conditioning 24/7, more food options, paved roads and phone service, it won’t be too long before the East Cape becomes just like the other areas of Los Cabos. So appreciate the beautiful place you are in, and be content with going ‘back to basics’ in some aspects of your visit.

• 📱Phone service and wifi: phone service is virtually non-existent, and wifi isn’t offered everywhere. This is improving now with Starlink and most accommodations should have some wifi, but don’t count on it. We can vouch for the wifi at The White Lodge. Download your maps in advance, and prepare to unplug for a few days.

• 🏧 ATMs: come loaded with cash as there are no ATMs in the area. The nearest one is La Ribera, and if you’re planning to also spend some time in Cabo Pulmo before coming out the other side of Camino Cabo Este, you’ll want to get enough cash in advance. Accommodation offerings, bigger restaurants and tour operators may have credit card facilities, but due to spotty wifi and phone reception, it’s not always available.

• ⚡️ Off-grid electricity: as far as we could tell, there is no proper electricity in the area. Power is solar during the day, and a generator at night if required. Many accommodation providers will ask you to avoid aircon use at night, and there can be sporadic power outages. If you’re visiting outside the summer months (May – October), an aircon shouldn’t be required. And if you are there in the heat of summer, use the ocean breeze to cool your room.

• ⛽️ Petrol: there are no petrol stations anywhere from San Jose del Cabo to La Ribera, so leave with a full tank. We had no issues at all driving to The White Lodge, back and forth a few times along the coast to different beaches and restaurants, and driving all around Cabo Pulmo before heading into La Ribera. We made it with a quarter tank. It wasn’t tight at all but you wouldn’t want to leave with a half-empty tank.

• 🛒 Food and groceries: as mentioned above, restaurants can be unreliable, and due to the remote location, they are a little pricey too. Besides the small tienda in La Fortuna, there is nowhere to buy groceries, so stock up before you come if you have a fridge/kitchen at your accommodation. We didn’t have these facilities where we stayed at The White Lodge, but we wish we bought a few more snacks with us to have at the beach between meals (chips, fruit etc.).

• 🫏 Driving hazards: I’ve already talked you through what to expect on Camino Cabo Este, but to reiterate – the road is bumpy, corrugated and narrow in many places. We didn’t find it overly challenging or scary at all, but it is slow going and your bones will be rattling! There are also donkeys, cows, dogs and goats to contend with so drive slowly and stay aware. We didn’t drive anywhere at night, as we felt it would be dangerous to navigate bad roads and spot any animals. If you need to drive at night to get dinner, just be careful!

• 🧘🏼‍♀️ Slow down and go with the flow: this area is a world away from the busy and bustling Los Cabos. It is not developed in the same way, and there are not the same level of tourist amenities and services. Restaurants might be closed and are unlikely to have everything available on their menu. Tours are less ‘pre-packaged offerings’, and more ‘I know a guy who could take you’. It’s difficult to plan in advance, but that is the beauty of this place. So slow down, enjoy the pristine surroundings, soak up the peace and quiet and go with the flow.

East Cape Baja: A hidden gem

We have travelled around most of Baja California Sur, and the East Cape is up there as one of the most beautiful places we visited. We absolutely adored this remote, at times strange, and incredibly scenic area.

The bumpy roads, stunning vistas, friendly donkeys, whales offshore and complete serenity stole our hearts, and we can’t wait to get back and spend more significant time in the area.

This is the kind of place we can imagine ourselves staying for months at a time. To completely unplug and get away from it all. I don’t think I would ever get sick of those incredible views!

It still feels like a bit of a mystery to us, but we hope this post has helped explain the East Cape area and made your visit a little easier.

If you do visit, and anything in the area has changed please let me know in the comments. I try to keep my posts as up-to-date and accurate as possible, but as I’m sure you can tell, it’s tricky to do in an area that has virtually no information available online!

Where to next? If you’re heading south to Los Cabos, check out our guides for Cabo San Lucas or San Jose del Cabo. Or if you’re continuing along Camino Cabo Este, you can find information about Cabo Pulmo here.