Complete Guide to Semuc Champey & Lanquin Guatemala

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Hidden away deep in the Guatemalan jungle a long way from anywhere are the gorgeous limestone pools of Semuc Champey. 

Chances are you’ve seen the classic Instagram photo of these dazzling turquoise pools, and Semuc Champey immediately became a non-negotiable inclusion on your Guatemala itinerary. 

But visiting these pools is much easier said than done and it’s important you understand where you’re headed and what you’re signing up for before you lock in Semuc Champey. We don’t regret going, but the whole experience was not as good as the hype, so managing your expectations is key. 

We were super confused about the whole area before our visit. We were so hyper-focused on Semuc Champey itself, that it took a minute to understand the pools are in a town called Lanquin, there are accommodation options spread throughout the region both in the town and near the pools, and your choice about where you stay has consequences for getting there, getting around, your meals and tour experiences.

We’ll explain all this in our complete guide to visiting Semuc Champey (the pools) and Semuc Champey (the region, aka Lanquin).

About Semuc Champey

A firm fixture on the Guatemala backpacker trail, Semuc Champey is a unique set of turquoise-coloured pools on a natural limestone bridge nestled deep in the jungle. 

These aren’t just any pools in a river. The Rio Cabahón actually passes underneath the limestone platform. You can see the point where the water flows under the surface, and the small amount that doesn’t make it under creates this scenic set of calm, turquoise pools. 

Cascading over a series of tiered limestone steps, there are several small waterfalls and dozens of picture-perfect pools to float in. Surrounded by dense rainforest, with monkeys swinging through the trees and tropical birds flying overhead, it’s quite the scene. 

The official name of the site is the Semuc Champey Natural Monument. Although the name ‘Semuc Champey’ technically refers only to the pools, you’ll hear people using it to refer to the entire area. 

The pools are located near the town of Lanquin, and the whole area has become a jungle getaway for travellers in Guatemala, with a handful of remote hostels and hotels providing the perfect backdrop for a few days of relaxing (or drinking) off-grid in nature.

Where is Semuc Champey?

The Semuc Champey Natural Monument is located in central Guatemala in the Alta Verapaz Department. 

The closest town to the pools is Lanquin (officially San Agustin Lanquin), a 20-minute drive along a newly paved road (it was formerly a VERY bumpy ride but the access road is now fully paved from Lanquin since 2025).

Lanquin is a very small town, populated predominantly by Q’eqchi’ Maya and visiting backpackers. 

The capital city of Alta Verapaz, Coban, is 2 hours away and is the closest ‘civilisation’ to Semuc. 

The most common route for travellers in Guatemala is to use Semuc Champey as the stepping stone between Flores and Tikal in the north and Antigua or Lake Atitlan in the south. This is the route we followed too. 

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Where to stay in Semuc Champey

I would normally have this section a little later in my travel guides, but because Lanquin and Semuc Champey are so remote, where you stay is more than just a bed to sleep in.

In many cases, your accommodation is your transport, your restaurant and your tour operator, so all these things flow on from where you decide to stay. 

You basically have two options when it comes to where to stay: in or near Lanquin town, or near Semuc Champey in the jungle. 

Staying in or near Lanquin Town

Pros 👍🏼

• By being near Lanquin town, you’re not locked into eating and drinking every meal at your accommodation, as you can walk to the handful of local restaurants in town.

• You can choose to visit Semuc Champey independently via the public camionetas that depart from town. 

• You won’t need to add on an additional 20-minute drive when you arrive in town, after a very long shuttle ride (this isn’t so bad now that the road is paved though!).

• There are some accommodations that still have a jungle feel and nice views, despite being close to town.

Cons 👎🏼

• One of the biggest appeals of Semuc Champey and the Lanquin region is the remoteness and jungle vibes, so staying near town doesn’t necessarily give you that experience.

• You’re not close to Semuc Champey or the Rio Cabahón, so you’ll probably only have the chance to visit once.

BEST PLACES TO STAY IN AND AROUND LANQUIN TOWN

Take these budget categories with a grain of salt. Most options around Lanquin are a hybrid hostel/hotel with dorms and private rooms so it’s hard to say what is more budget-friendly and what’s on the higher end. The standard overall isn’t super high or fancy.

BUDGET 💰

• Zephyr Lodge: the party hostel in town with the famous pool overlooking the mountains. If you don’t want to drink and socialise, skip it, but many people come to Lanquin specifically for the party at Zephyr! 
  • Check prices and availability via Hostelworld 

• Hostal Vista Verde: mixed reviews, but a cheaper alternative to Zephyr with a nice pool and riverfront location. They have dorms and private rooms (shared bathrooms) in palm-thatched buildings scattered around the property. 
  • Check prices and availability via Hostelworld | Booking.com

MID-RANGE 💰💰

• El Retiro Lodge: a more laidback option on the riverfront near town. They have dorms and private rooms, some even with aircon. This is one of the more modern and equipped options. 
  • Check prices and availability via Hostelworld | Booking.com

• Casa Mary: if you want something private near town, this is the best-rated option. Simple, family-run but very clean and friendly. There’s no pool or riverfront area, and it lacks the mountain views, but it still has a rural, natural feel. 
  • Check prices and availability via Booking.com

BOUTIQUE 💰💰💰

• Guayaha: one of the ‘fancier’ options near Lanquin town, this hotel has very comfortable typical hotel rooms with bathrooms and balconies, and also private glamping tents scattered around the tropical grounds that share a bathroom. There is a pool, gorgeous lush gardens and a restaurant on-site. 
  • Check prices and availability via Booking.com | Expedia

• Loris Hotel: if you’re looking for a standard hotel vibe without the dorm rooms and backpackers or roughing it too much in nature, this is a solid option. Centrally located near town, the rooms are very comfortable, spacious and impeccably clean. There’s hot water, breakfast included and lovely staff, but you’re sacrificing on the jungle environment and views. 
  • Check prices and availability via Booking.com | Expedia

Staying near Semuc Champey

Pros 👍🏼

• The pools are the primary reason most people visit the area, so staying nearby makes sense. You can walk there from some accommodations, meaning you’ll be there first in the morning and can visit multiple times if you wish, or enjoy the Rio Cabahón outside the bounds of the park. 

• The accommodations around Semuc are very remote with all the jungle vibes. You’re totally immersed in nature and get an eco-lodge experience. This is what most people are looking for when they come here, ourselves included, which is why we chose Utopia Eco Hotel. 

Cons 👎🏼

• Because these accommodations are so remote, you’re basically captive to your accommodation for all your meals, drinks, transport and tours. Of course, things are more expensive given the location, so you’ll most likely be spending more of your Guatemala budget than you ordinarily would.

• These are remote, jungle accommodations without any luxuries or amenities. In most places, there’s no hot water, the power goes out frequently, and most of the rooms are very basic. It’s all part of the experience, but assess whether you’re okay with that. 

BEST PLACES TO STAY NEAR SEMUC CHAMPEY

BUDGET 💰

• Chi’i Bocol Community Hostel: this hostel / basic hotel gets rave reviews. Buried deep in the jungle, you have to walk 30 minutes to get here, which just adds to the adventure! It’s set right on the shores of the Cabahon River, and you can walk to Semuc Champey.  They have dorms and private rooms (with shared bathrooms), tons of gorgeous hangout and yoga spaces, and a vegetarian restaurant. 
  • Check prices and availability via Hostelworld | Booking.com

• El Portal: mixed reviews and pretty basic accommodations, but a laidback vibe with a privileged location right near the entrance to the pools. They have dorms and private rooms, a restaurant on-site and a swimming pool. 
  • Check prices and availability via Hostelworld | Booking.com

MID-RANGE 💰💰

• Greengo’s: right on the river in a fantastic location near the entrance to Semuc, Greengos has dorms and private A-frame cabins. It’s not quite a party hostel but it is a pretty social vibe. 
  • Check prices and availability via Booking.com | Hostelworld 

• Nawal: another hotel / hostel hybrid place, Nawal is pretty basic, but if you’re prepared for that, it’s a decent option. The positive of this is that their private rooms also have private bathrooms, so if you’d prefer not to share, this is your place! It’s within walking distance of Semuc Champey.
  • Check prices and availability via Hostelworld | Booking.com

BOUTIQUE 💰💰💰

• Utopia Eco Hotel: about 45 minutes walk from Semuc, this is where we stayed. A really laidback, peaceful atmosphere with a mix of dorms (private ‘nooks’) and cabanas. They’ve got a wellness focus with vegetarian meals and free yoga classes, and there is a working cacao farm on the property and you can take chocolate-making workshops on-site. 
  • Check prices and availability via Booking.com | Hostelworld

• Mountain Nest: one of the most remote options, not near town or the pools, but it is by far the nicest accommodation if you don’t want to rough it. Fantastic reviews, self-contained cabins and excellent views. This is an upgrade from the many hostels and the best option for couples or families with a slightly higher budget. 
  • Check prices and availability via Booking.com

Getting to Lanquin

No matter where you’re coming from in Guatemala, getting to Lanquin and Semuc Champey is probably going to be a long, bumpy journey (although the roads are improving). It’s smack bang in the middle of the country, not close to anywhere else with poor access roads winding through the mountains, many of which are unpaved. 

Although it is possible to get to Lanquin via a series of chicken buses, I would discourage this for most routes*. Even on a direct shuttle, you’re up for a 10+ hour journey, I can’t imagine how long it would take on a combination of 3+ buses stopping every 10 minutes. 

This is one trip you really want to book a shuttle for. The shuttles depart from multiple destinations around Guatemala and will drop you in the town of Lanquin. They usually arrive in the late afternoon around 4:00 – 5:00 pm, and they all depart early in the morning around 7:00 – 8:00 am when leaving Lanquin.

*As of 2025, the roads in and around Lanquin are improving, which makes taking a public bus less tiresome and a more appealing option, plus a LOT cheaper. I still think it depends on where you’re coming from, as I would prefer to sit in one shuttle all day than navigate 3+ changes on a constantly stopping chicken bus. But there are increasing direct buses from the city of Coban, which is ~2 hours from Lanquin. There are (non-stop) long-distance connections from Coban to Guatemala City and supposedly Xela, according to a recent reader comment.

• 🐒 From Flores: we took the shuttle from Flores, and it was about 9 hours. The trip was beautiful, but very windy, climbing steep mountain passes. Our van even had to get on a rickety wooden barge to cross a river at one point. Book this route online.

• ⛪️ From Antigua: the trip from Antigua is similar, about 8 – 9 hours. We travelled there after Semuc and it was a slightly smoother trip. Book Antigua to Lanquin online.

• 🌈 From Lake Atitlan: coming from Lake Atitlan is the longest journey, you should expect it to be over 10 hours. Shuttles depart from both Panajachel (book online) and San Pedro la Laguna (book online).

• 🌿 From Rio Dulce: this is a less common route, but it is possible. The direct road between Semuc Champey and Rio Dulce is mostly unpaved and can be impassable in the wet season. Only 4×4 trucks run this route, generally not everyday and they require a minimum number of passengers. However it’s also possible to take a slightly longer, but much smoother route via El Estor and Coban, and shuttles and buses run this trip more frequently. This route is now increasingly being sold on Bookaway, but I don’t know which direction they drive.

🚐 We used Bookaway to book our tourist shuttles all over Guatemala, you can get 5% off with our code SALLY5

No matter where you’re coming from, north or south, you will most likely stop in the city of Coban for a break. It’s about 2 hours away from Lanquin, and most shuttles will stop at a shopping mall with some fast food outlets. Including MCDONALDS! 

Never have I been happier to see the golden arches, and ordering a cheeseburger meal was a godsend after 7+ hours in a tight van. A very nice travel day treat, compared with eating 2-minute noodles from the service station or a questionable meal of unknown ingredients that’s been sitting in a bain-marie for who knows how long. 

Tourist shuttles are easy to book at any accommodation or travel agent. You can organise it at your point of departure or you can ask your accommodation in Lanquin/Semuc Champey to organise it for you.

Some accommodations in Semuc require you to book your departing shuttle with them, in order to get free transport into town where the shuttles leave from. I guess their commission covers the cost of your transport, so just check this before you make any bookings. 

You can also book online via Bookaway, which is how we booked most of our transport around Guatemala. 

Getting around Lanquin

GETTING TO YOUR ACCOMMODATION

The shuttles drop off at the service station in Lanquin, not at your accommodation. 

If you’re staying at one of the accommodations outside of town closer to Semuc Champey, it’s only about 20 minutes further as of 2025, now that the road to Semuc is paved.

Most accommodations include pick up in a camioneta (pickup truck). When you get off the shuttle, drivers will be shouting the name of the hostel and you’ll easily find your ride. They know when the shuttles are arriving each day, so they’re ready and waiting. 

Utopia picked us up for free and we crammed into the back of the truck with about 5 other travellers and our backpacks. It’s standing room only and at the time was a very bumpy ride (should be smoother now), but we got a beautiful sunset over the mountains. 

If you’re staying in one of the accommodations around Lanquin, you can walk to most places in about 10 – 15 minutes, although many accommodations do offer free pick-up to save you an uphill hike with your bags. Just check in with them before you arrive. 

GETTING AROUND LANQUIN

How you move around the area depends on where you stay. If you’re in or near Lanquin town, you will have options for different transport. If you’re staying closer to Semuc, you’re pretty much bound to your accommodation unless you want to walk or take a tour. 

• 👣 Walking: if you’re staying near Lanquin, most of the accommodations are a 10 – 15 minute walk into town. Giving you options for different restaurants, supermarkets, ATMs etc. as well as access to the public camionetas that depart from the town square. You can walk to Semuc Champey from town, but it’s around 2 – 3 hours (10 km / 6 mi). 
  
  If you’re staying closer to Semuc, the only place you can really walk is the pools, in 15 – 45 minutes depending on your accommodation. 

• 🚛 Public camioneta: public 4×4 camionetas run around the area, most commonly from Lanquin town to the Semuc Champey pools. 

• 🛻 Tour: no matter where you’re staying, taking a tour is generally the easiest way to navigate the lack of public transport. The most common tours are, of course, to Semuc Champey, but there are also other tour options in the area. 

• 🛺 Tuk tuks: if you’re staying in or near Lanquin town, there are tuk-tuks (aka mototaxis) zooming around. They’re good for shorter trips (e.g. from your accommodation to the service station for the shuttles). Since 2025, now that the road to Semuc is paved, they are also useful for getting to the pools.

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Visiting the Semuc Champey Natural Monument

Now you’re in Lanquin and at your accommodation either near town, or in the jungle near Semuc you’re ready to think about your visit to the Semuc Champey Natural Monument – the reason you came here! 

Visitor information

• ⏰ Opening hours: 8:00 am – 4:30 pm daily. Avoid weekends and holidays if possible.

• 💰 Entry cost: 50Q for foreigners

• 🚻 Amenities: there are bathrooms at the entrance at the visitor centre, and another set of bathrooms and changerooms near the upper pools, once you come off the trail from the mirador. There are lockers at this changeroom, but if you want to use them you need to bring your own padlock. 

• 🍽️ Food and drink: there are a handful of local restaurants near the entrance to the park. Don’t expect anything great, most are local places with buffet-style lunches with meat on the BBQ, vegetables, salads, rice, tortillas etc. Expect to pay around 50 – 70Q for the buffet. Once you enter the park, there are no official food or drink outlets. There are a lot of Maya families along the trail to the mirador selling cold drinks, fresh coconuts and fruit, but if you want snacks or lunch by the pools, you should bring it. 

What to bring to Semuc Champey

• 💰 Cash: entry to the park is cash only, and so are most of the local restaurants and vendors, as well as the caminonetas. Come strapped with cash! 

• 👙 Swimsuit and towel: you will want to jump in those sparkly pools! There is a changing room near the pools, but we always think it’s just easier to come wearing your bathers. It’s fresh water so you’ll dry off quickly in the sun! We use Dock & Bay towels which always dry super fast.

• 👟 Water shoes: the rocks in the pools are sharp and slippery, and I was glad for my Teva sandals. It’s not essential, but we were both happy to wear shoes in the pools. If you are planning to do the cave tour, you must have shoes you can wear inside and get wet. Flip flops won’t cut it, but they do rent and sell water shoes near the cave. 

• 🔒 Padlock: if you don’t feel comfortable leaving your bags unattended while you swim, bring a padlock. There are lockers in the bathroom/changeroom area by the upper pools, but they don’t have any locks. 

• 💧 Water: bring a reusable water bottle or two, it’s hot and steamy especially as you hike up the mirador. You can buy water there, but don’t add any more plastic waste to this beautiful natural place! 

• 🍍 Snacks or lunch: if you don’t want to leave the pools for lunch, BYO picnic and snacks to enjoy by the water. 

• 📷 GoPro or waterproof phone case: it’s possible but not super easy to bring your phone into the pools for photos. There are some shallow sections where you can walk a long way onto the bridge, but it is quite slippery. If you want to do the cave tour, you’ll want a GoPro vs your phone, as you’ll be banging it around as you climb, jump and scramble through the cave. We’ve recently upgraded our water/action cam to DJI Osmo Action 6 and love it!

How to get to Semuc Champey

📣 Update: the road from Lanquin to Semuc Champey is now entirely paved as of 2025. What once was a 45 minute – 1 hour trip on bumping, winding mountain roads, takes about 20 minutes and can be done in any vehicle, including tuk-tuks.

• 👣 Walk: if you’re staying at one of the accommodations near the pools, you can walk, usually between 15 – 45 minutes depending on where you’re coming from. You can walk all the way from Lanquin, but it’s 10 km (6 mi) and will take 2 – 3 hours. A lot of people do it one way and get transport back in the afternoon. 

• 🚛 Public camioneta: public pickup trucks depart from the main square in Lanquin town frequently throughout the day. The trip will take around 20 minutes on the new road and should cost around 30Q. Your accommodation should know the schedule. 

• 🚚 Private camioneta: some accommodations offer transport to Semuc Champey in their own trucks, without needing to book a full-day guided tour. You’ll probably just jump in with the tour group, but go your separate ways at the park. Expect to pay between 15 – 30Q, depending on where you’re coming from. 

• 🛻 Tour: the most common way to visit Semuc Champey is to join a tour from your accommodation, no matter where you’re staying. They’ll transport you to and from the pools in a pick-up truck. 

• 🛺 Tuk-tuk: now the road from Lanquin to Semuc is paved, tuk-tuks are now driving to the pools and are a valid form of transport. I’m not sure how much they cost, sorry. It would be a more expensive option to the camionetas, but more flexible on times.

Guided or solo?

This is a tough decision to make and where I think we went wrong on our visit to Semuc. 

The easiest option is the guided tour. All accommodations offer a standard tour that you can book and pay for as part of your stay. 

You don’t have to think about transport, and it includes all the main attractions and sights at Semuc, including the cave tour and an optional tubing add-on, which you can’t do solo. You pay one price and do all the activities.

Expect to pay around 200 – 300Q for a tour, which usually includes your entrance fee.

However, most of the tours don’t depart that early so the park will often be busy by the time you arrive. We didn’t leave Utopia until 10:00 am, whereas ordinarily Brayden and I would be up and out early to be at a tourist attraction when it opens to skip the crowds. 

You’re bound to someone else’s schedule, and you have to stick with a big group and move on when your guide wants you to. We felt like we didn’t have enough time to enjoy the pools, and if we visited solo, we would have stayed much longer just swimming and hanging out and exploring more of the river. 

You can only do the cave tour and the tubing with a guide, but there is the option to pay for these experiences as add-ons when you arrive if you come solo. Admittedly it was really fun to do this part of the day with our group though. 

If you’re not short on time, I’d recommend doing a tour the first day and ticking off all the experiences, then returning to the pools solo the following day on your own time, to relax and enjoy the pools for as long as you like.

We could have done this, but it was so hot and we were too lazy to walk to and from the pools from Utopia, but I regret not going back. (With hindsight I now know that I got dengue fever at Semuc, so I was probably feeling tired and lazy for a reason!).  

Sites to see at Semuc Champey

Mirador

The first place I’d recommend you visit at Semuc Champey is the mirador. This is where you get that epic aerial view of the turquoise pools, cascading over the limestone ledges. It’s probably the image that made you want to come here in the first place!

It takes about 15 minutes to get from the entrance to the start of the mirador trail, and from there, you’ve got a 30 – 45 minute steep climb upwards. The trail is narrow and slippery in parts with a mix of concreted steps in varying states of disrepair and natural jungle trail. 

I was huffing and puffing in the heat, but there are places to stop for a rest if you need it, and plenty of locals selling cold refreshing drinks and coconuts! 

Your experience at the top will depend on how busy it is when you visit. We were on a tour so we didn’t get to the mirador until after 11:00 am, and it was also a weekend so it was crazy busy (big mistake by us!). 

There was a huge line to get to the lookout platform and we had to wait quite a while to enjoy the view, and of course, take photos. It felt really rushed and at this point, I was cursing our decision to go with a tour.

The views are epic though and it was worth the wait. You can appreciate how unique the pools are, and the scale of the river inside the deep, jungle-clad valley was amazing. 

It’s a much quicker and easier climb down. You take a different path down that spits you out at the upper pools, near the bathroom, changing room and lockers. 

El Sumidero

Before you dive into the pools, walk all the way to the upper end to see the ‘sumidero’. The direct translation is sink or drain, and this is where the Rio Cabahón rushes under the surface of the natural limestone bridge.

It’s very unique and impressive. The river is so strong and thundering before it disappears under the rock. Seeing this helped us make sense of the site, and you can understand how these beautiful calm pools were formed. 

Semuc Champey pools

The main attraction at Semuc Champey is the beautiful, crystal-clear turquoise pools. There are dozens of different pools, separated by the natural maze of limestone with waterfalls cascading down different tiers. 

The water is quite chilly, but it’s super refreshing after the hot and sweaty mirador hike. 

The pools are divided into two sections, the lower and the upper. 

You’ll arrive at the upper pools first if you come down from the mirador trail. This area has a wooden boardwalk, making it easier to navigate to the water’s edge. It’s also where you’ll find the bathrooms and changing rooms. Generally, it’s busier, but the pools are particularly beautiful here. 

The lower pools back towards the entrance are a mix of large, deep pools and shallower areas with quite a lot of rough limestone to navigate. The water’s edge is a tangle of tree roots and mud, so you won’t find as many people hanging out around here, but it’s good if you want a quieter spot. We set up here after exploring the upper pools. 

There are pools of all different shapes and sizes, some with waterfalls, some completely calm and enclosed. Some are deep enough to jump into but others are quite shallow. I’d definitely recommend hopping your way along the river and exploring all the different sections. 

Ka’an Ba Cave

Included on every Semuc Champey tour is a jaunt through the Ka’an Ba Cave.

If you’ve visited the pools independently, you can join a tour of the cave on-site at the entry. They run every half an hour from 9:00 am – 3:00 pm. It should cost 60Q to enter the cave, and the cost for the (mandatory) guide is on top of this. I believe it’s 25Q but we did this as part of the tour from our accommodation so I can’t confirm.

If you’ve done any research about the area before your visit, you’ll have some notion of what to expect. Navigating through a tight, dark cave with only a candlestick for light, through a combination of walking, swimming, climbing, squeezing and jumping wearing war paint slapped on by your guides. 

As someone who is slightly claustrophobic, watching YouTube videos of the tour prior to our visit made my heart palpitate, but for some reason, I was feeling brave on the day and decided to do it. 

It was a lot of fun, and not as scary as I imagined. Yes, you’re inside a cave with close to 100 people at times, as big groups of backpackers squeeze past each other on the out-and-back path through the cave. Yes, our candles went out in the water a few times, we got a few bumps and bruises in the process, and yes, I did jump from the roof of the cave into a pitch-black pool of unknown depth below.

If there’s ever a moment where you think ‘wow, I’m really backpacking in Guatemala’, this is it. This activity would never be allowed in other countries and it definitely can be dangerous – it’s up to you to assess the risk and decide if you’re comfortable to do the tour or not.

The whole experience lasted about an hour, and although there were a few tight squeezes, it was mostly a tall, open cave which didn’t feel claustrophobic for me at all. 

The waterfall

Most tours will include a stop at the big waterfall, where the water rushes out from the pools and reconnects with the Rio Cabahón. 

We did this after the cave tour, and it was a short walk along the river to reach the waterfall. I think you can also wander up here if you do a cave tour independently. 

If you or anyone in your group is brave enough, your guide will show you how to climb up the waterfall to cliff jump from above. 

That was a big no from me, and the current here was insanely strong as the water launched out from under the natural bridge. 

I did read something recently that the path to get to the waterfall (and the swing I mention below) is now considered private property (of the El Portal hostel) and you can’t freely access it without paying. We visited as part of a broader tour and didn’t encounter this, but I’d love to know your experience if you’re visiting the park solo.

Rope swing

Another activity that you can choose to partake in if you’re up for it is a big rope swing into the river, just a short distance downstream from the waterfall. 

This might not sound overly exciting or thrilling, but let me tell you, this swing was insane. We got some serious airtime, smashed into the surface of the river and were immediately carried down along the strong current and had to swim pretty damn quick to get out. 

Another potentially dangerous experience to add to your Semuc bucket list. If you’ve done the cave tour, you may as well face the swing tour too! We both did it and were glad we did. 

Tubing

Another activity that is usually included in most Semuc Champey tours, but you can also pay to do it separately if you visit independently (around 50 – 60Q). Tubing is usually the last item on the agenda for a day at the pools. 

After our thrilling swing, we headed back towards the yellow bridge near the entrance to the park and grabbed our inflatable tubes. There are (sadly) plenty of kids hanging around selling you beers to enjoy while you float down. We opted to buy ours from one of the restaurants instead, at the direction of our guide, but I don’t know how much of a difference it really made. 

Our Semuc Champey tubing experience worked a little differently as we were staying at Utopia, and we actually floated all the way back to the hostel as the river runs right past it. We offloaded our bags with the camioneta driver before jumping in the river, and he transported everything back to the hostel. 

If you’re not staying along the river, you will tube for a distance, and hop out where a pickup truck will be waiting to take you back. You can leave your bags with the drivers or guide at Semuc, so long as you’re comfortable to do so. Don’t bring anything on the tube that you can’t properly secure to yourself, or would be sad to lose (e.g. sunglasses). 

I had envisaged a pretty smooth ride along the river, enjoying a beer as the sun dipped below the mountains. It started off like this, but things quickly intensified.

About 20 minutes later, our guide gathered us all to the banks of the river and started shouting instructions for how to handle the rapids. Rapids? What rapids?!

The next 20 minutes involved lots of screams, lost sunglasses, lost tubes, beer cans flying everywhere, people flying everywhere, freezing water and some scratched-up bums. We tackled 5 sets of rapids, with the girls clinging to our guide’s tube the entire time, and the boys attempting to go solo and flipping everywhere. 

We visited during the dry season when the river should be relatively calm, but that was not our experience. It was still a whole lot of fun, but it was much, much more intense than we expected!

Other things to do in Lanquin

I’ll be honest, we didn’t do anything else while we were in Lanquin. 

After our day at Semuc, we just relaxed at Utopia and enjoyed the jungle vibes. They offer free yoga classes, and the property is right on the river so we just chilled out, had a swim and sat for hours in their gorgeous dining room looking at the view. 

I think most people who stay in remote accommodations do exactly the same thing. Lounging by the pool if you’ve got one, and taking the chance to rest and recuperate before another long journey when you leave. 

The only other major site that I wish we had seen, and probably would have if we stayed near town, is the Grutas de Lanquin (Lanquin Caves). I don’t have a lot of info as we didn’t do it ourselves, but it’s a pretty impressive cave system that you can visit partly solo, or join a tour to explore deeper into the cave. If you visit at dusk, you can watch thousands of bats fly out of the cave for the night. 

This is also a major cacao farming region and many of the jungly accommodations will offer chocolate making / cacao plantation tours on-site. Utopia did. If you’re not staying in the jungle, your accommodation can probably recommend a tour with a local farmer.

Is Semuc Champey worth it?

This is a tough question to answer and it really depends on your itinerary and planned route through Guatemala. It’s completely isolated in the centre of the country, and no matter where you’re travelling from, you’re going to lose two full days on a cramped shuttle. 

There’s no denying that Semuc Champey is beautiful. The colour of the pools, and the jungle location, it is visually stunning. I felt it was lacking in the experience though. Maybe we visited on a bad day, but we just didn’t feel the magic. It was crowded, the tours felt regimented and it’s such an established spot on the tourist trail, although you are remote in the jungle, it didn’t really feel it. 

As we continued our travels through Central America and made it to Costa Rica, we visited dozens of stunning blue waterfalls, and we had them all to ourselves. These places felt as magic as they looked. 

We don’t regret visiting Semuc, and it made sense for us to stop here between Flores and Antigua, but it was far from our favourite swimming/waterfall experience in the region, and it’s a long way to go for essentially one day. 

If you’re visiting Flores, I’d say Semuc Champey is worth it. Yes, you’ll still have two long days of shuttles on either side of your visit, but at least you’re moving in the right direction, and it’s a good way to break up the trip between Flores and Antigua (unless you want to fly or take the night bus). 

If you’re primarily visiting southern Guatemala (e.g. Antigua, Lake Atitlan) and want to visit Semuc as a round trip, I don’t think it’s worth it. You’re essentially travelling two full days for one day at the pools, only to turn around and go back to exactly where you started. El Paredon is a better choice if you’re looking for an extra destination.

If you can only visit during the wet season (May – October), I’d skip it altogether. The risk of heavy rain closing the pools or turning them brown is too great for such a long trip. 

Tips for visiting Lanquin & Semuc Champey

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• 🌤️ Best time to visit: as with the rest of the country, the best time to visit Semuc Champey is in the dry season, between November – April. This gives you the best chance of dry sunny days, with sunshine to illuminate the pools and make their turquoise colour really pop. Sticking to the dry season months is even more critical at Semuc as the pools can close after heavy rain and they often turn brown from all the runoff. You’d hate to spend 20+ hours travelling to and from to not even be able to visit or enjoy the pools. Plus, access in the wet season is a tougher trip as many of the roads are unpaved, and they’re even more bumpy and muddy after heavy rain. 

• 😴 How long to stay: the absolute minimum amount of time you can stay in Semuc Champey is 2 nights, but we’d recommend at least 3. No matter where you’re coming from, you won’t arrive until the evening and all the shuttles depart Lanquin first thing in the morning. You’ll want at least one day to see the pools, but if you only stay 2 nights, you’ll be jumping straight back on a cramped shuttle the day after. 3 nights give you a day to rest and relax, 4 wouldn’t be too much if you really want to slow down your pace and enjoy some downtime in a beautiful area. 

• 🫶🏼 Safety: Semuc Champey is very safe. It’s a remote and isolated area but it receives thousands of tourists each year, and tourism is a major income for the town, so everyone is helpful and friendly. The major concerns here are your physical safety when doing activities like swimming, cave tours and tubing, and avoiding any illness from food, water or insects. 

• 🦟 Protect from insects: I got dengue fever in Semuc Champey. Well, I think I did. It was about a week later that I fell ill, which is the usual incubation period. Our room at Utopia had bug screens, but it was torn in many parts so I did get bitten, apparently by a cheeky dengue-carrying mosquito! It wasn’t the worst illness, so I don’t want to scare you, but just be vigilant about bugs, do your best to screen your room and cover up in the evenings. 

• 🍻 Pools first, party second: although we’re not big partiers ourselves and we opted for quiet accommodation, a lot of people come to Semuc (read: Zephyr Lodge) to party. But we met sooo many people who were totally hungover and miserable at the pools and didn’t enjoy themselves. Be smart: hold off on drinking your first night, do the pools the next day and then have a big night drinking if that’s what you want to do, with a rest day afterwards. Don’t muck up your time at the pools, you came a long way to see them. 

• 🗣️ Language: like everywhere in Guatemala, Spanish is the official language in Semuc Champey, however many locals don’t actually speak it, they speak Qʼeqchiʼ Maya. Given how touristy the area is, we found a lot of people spoke English from our guides, staff at our accommodation and shuttle drivers. 

• 💰 Currency: Guatemala uses the Guatemalan Quetzal (GTQ or Q for short). Although some tourism companies will price and accept USD for expensive things, it’s not very common, especially not in this area, and the Quetzal is the primary form of payment. 

• 🏧 ATMs: there is only one ATM in Lanquin and it’s unreliable. You need to come STOCKED with cash. Most accommodations do accept card, but some charge a 5-7% fee or the machine drops out with the poor wifi. I’d plan to pay for everything in cash, plus a bit extra. 

• 🧾 Watch your bill: most of the hostels in the area operate on a tab system. You order any food, drinks or tours throughout your stay and it will be added to your room bill to settle before you leave. It’s not uncommon that these tabs have some extra charges on them. Whether it’s deliberate or unintentional, I don’t know, but keep a note on your phone of everything you order and what it costs so you don’t get overcharged.  

• 📱 Phone & SIM Cards: Semuc Champey and the Lanquin area are remote and internet and phone service are limited. We had some reception with our Tigo SIM cards, and our accommodation, Utopia, had pretty decent wifi, but don’t be expecting a super speedy connection. It’s unlikely Lanquin is your first stop in Guatemala, but make sure you arrange a local SIM card before you get there. Alternatively use an eSIM.

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Semuc Champey: Final thoughts

While Semuc Champey wasn’t a highlight of Guatemala for us, I can see the appeal. We had a really enjoyable few days staying in the jungle, soaking up stunning views of the mountains and exploring the pools. 

I don’t want to discourage anyone from visiting, but I hope after reading this post you have managed expectations and a better understanding of the area. You’d rather be surprised by how much you like it, instead of disappointed that it didn’t live up to the hype! 

If you’re travelling northbound towards Belize or Mexico, your next stop will most likely be the charming town of Flores, the gateway to the Maya city of Tikal. If you’re heading south, as we were, next up is Antigua, the gorgeous colonial city or Xela or Lake Atitlan, depending on your route.

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