Complete Guatemala Travel Guide (Not Just Antigua & Atitlan)

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Active volcanoes spewing lava, charming colonial cities, Maya ruins hidden deep in the jungle and one of the prettiest lakes in the world? It’s no wonder Guatemala is one of the most popular tourist destinations in Central America!

We spent five weeks travelling in Guatemala as part of a 6-month trip through Central America. The first thing that comes to mind when I reflect on our time there is colour.

Guatemala is painted in all shades of the rainbow. From the deep blues of Lake Atitlan to the vibrant greens of the jungle in the north, with fiery pink and orange sunrises in El Paredon and soft yellow on the historic churches of Antigua. The sparkling turquoise pools of Semuc Champey contrast with the black volcanic rock. It’s vibrant and alive and overwhelming at every turn.

Whether you’re backpacking in Guatemala, or travelling with a higher budget, this Guatemala travel guide will cover everything you need to know to plan the perfect trip to Guate.

It includes additional destinations outside Antigua and Lake Atitlan because I truly believe there is more to this beautiful country than just its most popular destinations.

In this Guatemala travel guide, I’ll share the best places to visit and top things to do, how to get to and around the country, as well as handy travel info like entry requirements, money matters and phones and SIM cards. 

Why visit Guatemala?

Guatemala is quickly becoming one of the most popular countries in Central America. Although there is still sensationalized and outdated media coverage labelling the country as unsafe, savvy travellers will discover a rich and diverse destination worth exploring.

Guatemala has blown up with young travellers in particular, and backpacking in Guatemala is very common. But no matter your budget, this country is worth visiting!

• 🌋 Volcanoes: Guatemala is home to 37 volcanoes, more than any other country in Central America. It has some of the most active volcanoes in the world, and you have the opportunity to hike up many of them, even spending the night on the slopes of an active volcano watching lava spew out into the sky! It’s otherworldly.

• 🌈 Rich culture: I’ve travelled all over Mexico and Central America, and nowhere has such a rich display of Indigenous culture than Guatemala. The Mayan culture is not just history in Guatemala – it’s living and breathing and you will see evidence of it everywhere you go. With the vibrant traditional dress, opportunities to immerse yourself in traditions like weaving, pottery and cooking and of course, exploring the remnants of one of the greatest Mayan cities of all time, Tikal.

• 😌 Fewer tourists: Central America as a whole isn’t that popular with international travellers, and whilst visitors to Guatemala are increasing, it pales in comparison to its neighbours. In 2023, it was estimated Guatemala received around 2.5 million tourists compared to more than 20 million in Mexico.

• 💰 Affordable prices: the cost of travel in Guatemala is very affordable. I wouldn’t say it’s a dirt cheap destination, but the value for money is excellent, with luxe hostels, boutique hotels and an amazing dining scene in many towns around the country. Tours and activities are inexpensive. You get a lot of bang for your buck.

• 🌿 Diverse landscapes: a trip to Guatemala isn’t just cities, or just beaches, or just nature. You can get a taste of everything here, as the landscape is so diverse! The north of the country is covered in dense, tropical jungle, while the Western Highlands sit at a high altitude with dozens of volcanoes. Guatemala has a big stretch of wild Pacific Coast with black sand beaches, and even a small slice of Caribbean coastline too. There are pretty cities, small towns and rural villages to explore.

Is Guatemala safe to travel?

That’s the number one question on everyone’s mind when they first start planning a trip to Guatemala – is it safe? While its reputation may have you believe otherwise, Guatemala is generally safe to travel to.

There is a risk of violence, mostly associated with drug cartel activity, anywhere in Mexico or Central America, but we didn’t find Guatemala any more or less unsafe than any other country in the region.

We were very comfortable the entire time and didn’t have any incidents that made us feel unsafe or nervous.

Government travel advice from Australia, Canada and New Zealand has Guatemala at risk level 2 – exercise a high degree of caution. There is no advice that you should not visit the country, just avoid certain areas which are not touristy and you’d be very unlikely to visit anyway. The US does rate Guatemala at risk level 3 – reconsider travel, but they tend to be a bit more conservative with their warnings.

Guatemala City can be very unsafe and it’s not recommended tourists spend too much time there. There are a few safe ‘zones’ you can visit and I’m sure the city does have some redeeming features, but we didn’t waste any time there, and to be overcautious, I’d suggest you do the same. It’s totally fine to transit through the airport, and a handful of bus routes go via the city, which we safely did.

Something that we did have to adapt to in Guatemala was not hiking independently. We always prefer this, but it’s generally recommended you go with a local guide if you’re hiking a volcano or other local trail. Robberies have occurred on trails in the past, and even in popular destinations, you can quickly become remote and isolated on a hike.

Plus, many of the best hikes in Guatemala are around active volcanoes, which in itself can be risky, so going with a guide is the safest bet. Tours are usually pretty affordable, and it’s another source of income for the community, so follow the advice even if you don’t feel like you need a guide.

Chicken buses are another potential risk in Guatemala and most locals would advise tourists not to use them, for safety concerns. I’ll touch more on transport below, but for me, the primary reason you wouldn’t use a chicken bus is not safety, but because they are so damn slow and inconvenient!

If you do want to use them I think 9 times out of 10, it’s safe to do so, so long as you’re not in Guatemala City. Don’t travel at night, and to minimise the risk even more, don’t use them to travel between destinations when you have all your valuables and bags with you.

Health in Guatemala

My usual approach to health in foreign countries is pretty lax. We eat street food, don’t fuss about ice in drinks, brush our teeth with tap water and certainly don’t freak out about touching dogs and cats.

However, we had the worst experience health-wise in Guatemala than we’ve had in any other country so I feel called to mention it.

Brayden got quite bad food poisoning, we both had countless quick trips to the toilet and worst of all, I ended up in the hospital for three days with dengue fever. It was just bad luck that these things all happened at once, and it probably could have happened anywhere in the region.

But I know we’re not alone in getting sick in Guatemala, and a lot of travellers suffer the same fate. The country is undeveloped overall and very poor in some parts, and the hygiene and health standards seem to be worse than in neighbouring countries.

Here are a couple of tips to try and prevent getting sick in Guatemala (which probably should be in all my travel guides!):

• 💧 Don’t drink tap water: but also don’t buy single-use plastic bottles either. Most accommodations will offer some kind of filtered water, the ceramic EcoFiltro jugs are common and work well. Use filtered water to brush your teeth, and use common sense about eating foods that are uncooked (fruit, salad) and icy drinks. Locals don’t drink the water either, so 99% of food stalls and restaurants will be using filtered water too. There’s no need to be over the top freaked out, but make good judgment calls.

• 🍗 Be sensible with street food: definitely don’t avoid street food, but use your best judgement on what’s safe. Don’t eat things that have been sitting out all day, or from stalls that are not busy. You want freshly cooked food that’s being turned over quickly by lots of customers. Ask food to be heated HOT, I don’t know why the region has such a penchant for lukewarm food!

• 🦟 Protect against bug bites: malaria, dengue and Zika virus are common in Guatemala. The best way to avoid these diseases is to not get bitten by mosquitoes! Use DEET repellent and cover up with clothing. The lowland, tropical areas (like Flores, Semuc Champey, Rio Dulce and El Pardon) have the highest risk, but dengue is still possible at altitude.

• 💉 Get your shots: consult your doctor before you travel to get any vaccinations required. They may suggest hepatitis and typhoid among other things.

• 🧼 Wash your hands often: I carry a little bottle of sanitiser in my bag and am constantly cleaning my hands. Mostly because I want to pat every single dog and cat I see, but if you’ve been on buses or other public areas, it’s good practice to clean your hands, especially before eating. You don’t have to be a germaphobe, just make it a habit.

Language in Guatemala

As with most countries in Central America, Spanish is the official language in Guatemala.

However, Guatemala has a very high Indigenous population which primarily speaks different Mayan languages. There are more than 20 different Mayan languages spoken around Guatemala which is mind-blowing to me! They may or may not also speak Spanish.

We found that a lot of people spoke English in the touristy areas of Guatemala. Not everyone, and you should never assume, but we found ourselves speaking English quite often, despite having a decent level of Spanish.

The more independent you want to travel (e.g. via chicken buses, skipping tours and visiting destinations outside of the Antigua – Atitlan – Semuc – Flores route) the more Spanish you’ll need to comfortably get by.

Best time to visit Guatemala

Most of Guatemala follows the standard Central American wet/dry season, although the climate varies a lot across the country at different altitudes.

The dry season is typically from November to April and the wet season is from May to October.

The north and east (Flores, Rio Dulce) have a hot, tropical environment. It’s very humid and the rainy season is more severe. Even in January (winter!) the temperatures were pushing 32°C (90°F) in Flores.

El Paredon and the Pacific Lowlands are similarly hot, and even in their supposed winter, it felt like we were going to melt on that boiling black sand beach.

It’s up at altitude in Antigua (1,545 m / 5,069 ft) and Lake Atitlan (1,562 m / 5,125 ft) where you’ll experience the saying ‘the land of eternal spring’. The altitude gives these areas a temperate climate year-round, with warm days and cool evenings and mornings.

Don’t underestimate how cold it can get, you will definitely want pants and a warm jumper, especially in winter, and even thicker layers for volcano hikes to higher altitudes. Xela is even colder, as it sits a little higher at 2,330 m / 7,644 ft.

These areas have a less severe rainy season, and showers are mostly isolated to the afternoon or evenings, and certainly not every day.

However, you have to consider the risk of visiting during a period of heavy rain, which can restrict access to certain destinations, and completely conceal views of volcanoes. I wouldn’t want to hike all the way up Acatenango only for Fuego to be covered by a dense layer of cloud! (This can happen at any time of the year, but the likelihood is much higher during the wet season).

The safest bet for warm, dry weather is the dry season from November – April. Skip Christmas, New Year and Easter if you can, as these are the busiest time periods for international and domestic travel.

🌞 I think mid-January to March is the best time to visit Guatemala for warm, sunny days, good visibility, a low chance of rain and fewer crowds

Places to visit in Guatemala

Guatemala has dozens of beautiful places to visit, but sadly most tourists only make it to 2 or 3 of them. Antigua, Lake Atitlan and Flores are incredible destinations and I’m not suggesting you don’t visit them. They’re popular for a reason and they were some of our favourite places in Guatemala.

But if you’ve got the time, I’d encourage you to choose at least one or two other destinations. All the places mentioned below are still ‘touristy’ and are safe with good infrastructure for travellers, they’re just a little outside the usual trodden trail.

• ⛪️ Antigua: by far the most popular destination in Guatemala, Antigua is a gorgeous colonial city. Think cobblestone streets, colourful historic buildings, cute cafes and rooftop terraces overlooking the three volcanoes surrounding the city. It’s also the jump-off point for hikes up active volcanoes, where you can sleep on the slopes of Volcan Acatenango and watch Volcan Fuego spew lava, smoke and ash into the sky.

• 🌈 Lake Atitlan: this has to be one of the prettiest lakes in the world! Surrounding by three looming volcanoes, and almost a dozen small Maya towns around the lakeshore, people say Lake Atitlan is magic, and it’s true.

• 🛕 Flores: sitting in the steamy, jungle-clad Peten region in the country’s north, I think Flores is one of the most underrated places in Guatemala. It’s the gateway to the mighty ancient city of Tikal and other jungle adventures. Isla de Flores (Flores Island) rivals Antigua for charming, colourful streets and its setting on the shores of Lake Peten Itza is incredibly scenic.

• 💎 Semuc Champey: one of the most iconic views in Guatemala is from a lookout in the jungle, overlooking the dazzling turquoise pools of Semuc Champey. The Rio Cabahon passes under a natural limestone bridge, leaving behind a series of tranquil pools, tucked deep in a valley surrounded by dense greenery. A handful of remote jungle lodges have popped up around the pools, offering a getaway in nature for a few days – just don’t forget to factor in the full-day journey to get there and away!

• 🌋 Xela: formally Quetzaltenango, Guatemala’s second-largest city is less polished than Antigua. This raw and rough-around-the-edges place offers a fantastic insight into authentic Guatemalan life. It’s also an excellent base for hiking more volcanoes, and the jump-off point for a unique Guatemalan travel experience, a multi-day hike from Xela to Lake Atitlan.

• 🏄🏼 El Paredon: Guatemala has a huge stretch of black-sand Pacific Coastline, but there is nowhere better to experience the laidback surf town vibes than El Paredon. With just a handful of sand streets, some epic waves and spectacular sunrises and sunsets, this is a great place to slow down and rest your muscles for a few days!

• 🌿 Rio Dulce: tucked in the far east corner of the country, the Rio Dulce is a jungle-clad waterway twisting 43-kilometre (27 mi) from the town of the same name to the Caribbean Sea. Lined with eco-lodges perched on wooden stilts, the river is a tropical getaway with a blissfully slow pace.

Top things to do in Guatemala

There are so many fantastic things to do in Guatemala. I’ve listed many in my specific destination articles, but if you’re wondering what are the absolute top, bucket list experiences that you should plan your trip around, here’s my top 10!

1. 🛕 Explore the ancient Maya city of Tikal: there are remnants of the great Maya civilisation all over Mexico and Central America, but none are as impressive as Tikal. Tucked away in the jungles of northern Guatemala, Tikal was one of the most powerful cities in its heyday, and the infrastructure is breathtaking. Wander amongst towering temples, while spotting wildlife in the jungle.

2. 🌋 Hike a volcano: Guatemala is home to 37 volcanoes, 3 of which are almost constantly active. One of the best things to do in Guatemala is hike one! Ranging from short day hikes to gruelling overnight treks, you can get up close and personal with all 3 of the active volcanoes. Acatenango Volcano in Antigua is the pinnacle of volcano hikes, where you’ll spend the night watching the hyperactive Fuego shoot lava into the sky. Hiking to the viewpoint over Santiaguito Volcano in Xela or to Pacaya Volcano near Antigua are easier yet just as rewarding options for active volcanoes.

3. 🛶 Kayak or SUP on Lake Atitlan: one of the best things to do in Lake Atitlan to soak up the impressive views of the lake’s three looming volcanoes is to get out on the water. Kayaks and stand-up paddleboards are available for rent all over the lake. Bonus points if you can get out for sunrise when the lake is calm and the sky is soft.

4. ⛪️ Sightseeing in Antigua: even if you’re not a city lover, I guarantee you’ll be charmed by Antigua! A UNESCO World Heritage Site for its fantastic and preserved Spanish colonial architecture, one of the best things to do in Antigua is to get lost amongst the cobblestone streets. Much of the city was reduced to rubble after a series of earthquakes in 1773, leaving behind eerie ruins to explore.

5. 💎 Swim in the stunning pools of Semuc Champey: the most brilliant turquoise-coloured water you’ve ever seen, tucked away in a jungle-clad valley in the middle of the country, Semuc Champey is a sight to behold.  

6. ☕️ Drink Guatemalan coffee: Guatemala’s coffee scene is heaven for coffee lovers. Growing some of the best beans in the world, they are expertly prepared by baristas all over the country. The coffee shops in Antigua are on par with those you’d find in Melbourne, London or New York with the interiors to match! Take a tour of a working coffee finca to learn about the process of growing, harvesting and processing coffee and how much work goes into just one cup.

7. 🌞 Catch a sunrise and sunset from the beach in El Paredon: there aren’t too many beaches in the world where you can watch both the sunrise and the sunset on the sand. El Paredon on Guatemala’s Pacific Coast is one of them, and they are some seriously impressive shows!

8. 🌈 Immerse yourself in Maya culture: Guatemala has the highest population of Mayan people in the world, and their rich, interesting culture is on display all over the country. The Mayan towns of Lake Atitlan are a fantastic place to learn more about traditions like weaving, cooking or pottery, and get an authentic insight into Mayan life.

9. 🛍️ Shop for local handicrafts: if you’re a shopper, you’ll be in heaven in Guatemala. You can buy all kinds of locally made handicrafts around the country, from patterned textiles to intricate pottery and wooden carvings. Chichicastenango Market is the biggest in the country, and twice per week, the town comes alive with thousands of stallholders who travel from neighbouring villages to sell their wares. Antigua and Lake Atitlan also have some great souvenir markets.

10. 🌿 Boat ride along the Rio Dulce: this exotic, jungle-clad waterway in the east of the country connects Lago Izabel to the Caribbean Sea in the Garifuna town of Livingston. The boat ride passes islands full of thousands of water birds, across lagoons filled with water lilies and through a narrow, towering canyon dripping with jungle.

Visas and immigration to enter Guatemala

Citizens of many nationalities can enter Guatemala without a visa for tourism purposes for up to 90 days. 

Guatemala is part of the CA-4 agreement with El Salvador, Honduras and Nicaragua, allowing travellers to spend 90 days total across all 4 countries. 

If you are entering Guatemala from another CA-4 country, they will find your original entry date to the region and calculate your remaining days based on that. 

There are no entry fees for Guatemala, you just need a valid passport.

You may be asked to show proof of onward travel. This is most likely to occur if you arrive via air at the La Aurora International Airport. We entered Guatemala via land border and weren’t asked any questions at all.

If you’re travelling through the region long-term with no fixed onward travel plans or departure flight, this can be problematic but you need to be prepared in case you are asked.

You can use a service like Onward Ticket, which instantly books you a real flight ticket for just a few bucks, and automatically cancels the booking after 48 hours. You don’t have to pay the full amount for the flight, just their service fee (currently $16). 

If you depart by a land border there are no exit fees. If you’re flying out of Guatemala, there is most likely an exit fee included in your ticket already, but you may be asked to pay small departure taxes in cash at the airport.

Getting to Guatemala

✈️ BY AIR

There is only one international airport in Guatemala, GUA – La Aurora International Airport which is located in Guatemala City. The airport is well connected to neighbouring countries around the Americas, with direct flights to multiple US cities. 

It’s unlikely you want to spend any time in Guatemala City, as it’s not the nicest or safest place. Depending on how you’re planning your Guatemala itinerary, I’d suggest transferring straight to Antigua or booking a domestic flight straight to Flores, FRS – Mundo Maya Airport in the north.

🚌 BY LAND

If you’re already travelling in Central America, you can easily cross into Guatemala from Belize, El Salvador or Honduras. 

Although it is possible to take a series of chicken buses for any of these routes, we’re big advocates of paying more tourist shuttles, especially for border crossing days. It costs more, but it’s quicker, easier, safer and way less hassle.

• 🇧🇿 From Belize (north): there are two options for crossing the border from Belize to Guatemala. The most common is in the north, travelling from Belize to Flores in Guatemala. We did this crossing and it was straightforward.
  
  San Ignacio in Belize is the closest and most common jump-off point, but it’s possible to travel all the way from the cayes (Caye Caulker or Ambergris Caye) or Belize City in one day if you don’t want to stop in San Ignacio.
  
  The easiest option is to book a tourist shuttle, that will take you from door to door and help with the border crossing process. You can book from Belize City (which offers pick-up from the water taxi dock if you’re coming from the cayes) or from San Ignacio.
  
  Alternatively, you can do it yourself via public transport which is actually really simple for this route. The trip isn’t too long and the border here is quick and straightforward. I’ve got more detailed instructions on how to DIY the border crossing here.
  
  Remember you need to pay a $20 USD / $40 BZD exit fee when you leave Belize.

• 🇧🇿 From Belize (south): the second option to cross from Belize to Guatemala is in the south. There are boats that run from Punta Gorda in Belize to Livingston in Guatemala, from where you can travel onwards to Rio Dulce. Requena’s Charter Service currently offers this trip, but it’s not always daily and schedules change a lot, so ask around at some local accommodations for updated information.

• 🇭🇳 From Honduras: depending on your route, there are two possible crossings from Honduras to Guatemala. The first is in the east, where you can travel from La Ceiba (the port city for Utila and Roatan) to Rio Dulce. We recommend Roneey Shuttle for this route.
  
  You can also travel from Copan Ruinas in Honduras to Antigua in Guatemala. A few different shuttle companies run this route and you can book online.

• 🇸🇻 From El Salvador: there are shuttles from multiple destinations in El Salvador to Antigua in Guatemala. Some routes will also drop you in El Paredon, which is a logical first stop if you’re travelling northbound.
  
  The most common route is El Tunco – Antigua, but I’d recommend seeing more of central and northern El Salvador first and then taking a shuttle from Santa Ana or from the Ruta de las Flores.

Getting around Guatemala

Guatemala is one of the biggest countries in Central America, and you’ll feel this size on the lengthy overland journeys to get around the country. Road conditions are generally poor, and combined with winding mountain roads, it takes a long time to get from A to B.

• 🚐 Tourist shuttles: tourist shuttles are by far the quickest and most convenient way to travel around Guatemala. They’re usually minivans, and they shuttle tourists directly between popular destinations, with few or no stops in between.
  
  They range from around $15 – $50 USD depending on the duration, and are a godsend for long trips like Flores – Semuc Champey (10+ hours) and Semuc Champey – Antigua (8+ hours). They’re far from comfortable, as the vans are usually small and cramped, but the fact that you can jump on in the morning and not have to change vehicles or think about anything until you arrive at your destination in the afternoon makes them very appealing.
  
  They’re also very safe, and we opted for shuttles a lot of the time because they allowed us to use the car time productively to work on our laptops, which we would never do on a public bus.
  
  You can book shuttles with any hostel or accommodation around town, or online via GuateGo. We used GuateGo a lot and it is a fantastic resource for working out direct shuttle routes around the country.

• ✈️ Flights: air travel isn’t super common in Guatemala, with the exception of one route. Flying from Guatemala City to Flores is the quickest and easiest way to access this northern city and the Mayan site of Tikal. The flights take about an hour and run multiple times per day by TAG or Avianca.

• 🚍 Coach bus: there are a handful of long-distance bus routes on proper coach buses. These are not local buses that stop for anyone on the side of the road. They travel from A to B, with possibly a few stops at official bus stations along the route. Liteagua, Maya de Oro and Frontera del Norte are the main companies.
  
  The most common routes you can use these buses for are Guatemala City – Flores (and vice versa), Flores – Rio Dulce (and vice versa) and Guatemala City – Rio Dulce (and vice versa).
  
  If you’ve got the option to take a proper bus instead of a shuttle, I’d recommend it. It is so much more comfortable than being crammed in a small van, although you will have to transit via Guatemala City which is unlikely to be on your itinerary.
  
  You can book tickets directly at the bus terminals in each city, but it’s also possible to book online via GuateGo. They also offer combos that include a shuttle from your origin (e.g. Antigua) to the bus terminal in Guatemala City and vice versa.

• 🚌 Chicken bus: the ubiquitous ‘chicken bus’ (aka converted American school buses decked out with colours and very loud speakers) run all over Guatemala. We are all for using local transport, but chicken buses in Guatemala are very inconvenient, and we rarely used them to get between destinations, although they are handy for shorter trips around towns.
  
  Because the country is so big, it takes a long time to get between destinations and most routes require multiple changes. Even shorter journeys, for example, Lake Atitlan – Antigua which is less than 3 hours drive, might require 2 – 3 bus changes. Without any published timetables, you can end up wasting a lot of time waiting for connecting buses.
  
  The plus side is they are incredibly affordable (a few dollars per ride), so if you’re on an extremely tight budget chicken buses will be your best friend. I’d still recommend booking a shuttle for longer trips. To and from Semuc Champey at the very least, as it’s nearly impossible to get there in one day via public chicken bus.
  
  There are a lot of great resources online for chicken bus routes, just search for your origin and destination and you’ll find instructions from other travellers that you can follow. CentroCoasting is also a good place to check for routes and timetables. 

• 🚙 Uber: Uber is available in Guatemala City, Antigua and Xela. It’s plentiful and cheap and is a great way to travel around within a destination. It’s also a good way to get between Guatemala City (the airport or bus terminal) and Antigua.

• 🚕 Taxi: taxis are available in all cities and towns. If you can use Uber, I’d suggest that as they are cheaper and more convenient, but taxis are always available. Be sure to agree on a price in advance as meters are not used.

• 🛺 Tuk-tuks: tuk-tuks are probably even more common than taxis for shorter trips around small towns. Always agree on a price, and make sure to negotiate, the drivers can start with some pretty outrageous prices. We always did a quick online search in advance to know roughly how much we should expect to pay for a route or asked our accommodation.

• 🚗 Rental car: although I love road trips, I don’t think Guatemala is an ideal country to rent a car. The roads are in very poor condition, and there are often roadworks or roadblocks from political protests. The distances are long and in some places, access and parking are tricky (e.g. Lake Atitlan, Flores Island, Semuc Champey).

Guatemala backpacking routes

This isn’t just for backpackers, but I do think that backpackers see Guatemala in the best way. 

Even if your budget is bigger, I encourage you to plan your itinerary ‘backpacker style’, moving around and staying in multiple destinations.

Guatemala isn’t a place that lends itself to one home base, as attractions are spread far and wide and day trips aren’t really feasible.

I think 1 month in Guatemala is the perfect amount to see both the highlights and some lesser explored destinations. A month gives you plenty of time at each destination and sufficient breaks between the inevitable full days of travel.

3 weeks is the next best option, which still allows for an in-depth exploration of the popular destinations, with time for one or two under-the-radar places too.

Any less than that, you have to make some serious sacrifices. You’d probably have to drop Semuc Champey from your itinerary and fly at least one way to or from Flores to reduce wasted travel time.

I’ve got an in-depth Guatemala itinerary post with a suggested route for 1 month in the country. 

The order in which you visit places will depend on where you’re arriving – via air, across the border from Belize in the north, or from El Salvador or Honduras in the south.

One month in Guatemala

• 🛕 Flores/Tikal: 4 nights
• 💎 Semuc Champey: 3 nights
• 🌋 Xela: 3 nights
• 🥾 Hiking from Xela to Lake Atitlan: 2 nights (optional)
• 🌈 Lake Atitlan: 6 nights
• 🏄🏼 El Paredon: 3 nights 
• ⛪️ Antigua: 6 nights
• 🌿 Rio Dulce: 3 nights (optional)

🗺️ Copy our exact 1 month Guatemala itinerary

Accommodation in Guatemala

You can find accommodations of all styles and budgets around Guatemala.

We spent a little more than we usually would on accommodation because there was such an amazing range of boutique options that always seemed to be just out of our price range. For the small jump in price, the quality and value were excellent.

The same is true for hostels. If you’re on a very tight budget there are cheap options, but there are a range of luxe hostels around the country that are very bougie with great amenities. They are slightly more expensive than what you’d expect to pay for hostels around the region, but again, the jump in quality is worth it for a few extra dollars. Dorm beds in these hostels are usually $18 – $22 USD.

I’ve got more detailed recommendations on where to stay (for a range of budgets) in each respective destination guide, as well as some specific accommodation guides:

• Where to Stay in Antigua Guatemala: Best Boutique Stays
• Where to Stay in Lake Atitlan: Best Towns and Hotels
• Where to Stay in Flores Guatemala: Area Guide + Hotels

Costs of travelling in Guatemala

Guatemala was in the mid-lower budget range compared to other countries in Central America. We didn’t find it as cheap as everyone says it is, but it was still very affordable and the quality of things like accommodation and restaurants for the price is excellent.

If you’re on a tight budget, travel in Guatemala can be very cheap if you’re willing to sacrifice comfort and convenience and use chicken buses for the majority of your journeys, restrain yourself from the fantastic restaurants and cafes and eat only local food and choose the more affordable, not boutique, hostels.

I’ve got a post about our Guatemala travel cost, with more detailed info about what we spent and what things cost. 

Some typical costs of travel in Guatemala: 

• 🏩 Private accommodation (comfortable but basic): $30 – $40 USD per night
• 🏩 Private accommodation (upper mid-range, excellent quality): $70 – $80 USD per night 
• 🛌 Dorm bed in a popular hostel: $15 – $22 USD per night 
• 🍳 Tipico Guatemalan breakfast: 20 GTQ (~$2.50 USD) 
• 🍜 International main meal (tacos, pasta, cafe meal): 50 – 80 GTQ (~$6.50 – $10 USD)
• ☕️ Barista coffee: 25 GTQ (~$3 USD)
• 🍷 Glass of wine from a wine bar in Antigua: 30 GTQ (~$4 USD)
• 🛕 Guided sunrise tour to Tikal inc. entry fees: 480 GTQ (~$60 USD)
• 💎 Entrance to Semuc Champey pools: 50 GTQ (~$6.50 USD)
• 🌋 Pacaya Volcano hike tour: 120 GTQ (~$15.5 USD)
• 🚐 Tourist shuttle Flores – Semuc Champey: 175 GTQ (~$23 USD)
• 🚙 Short Uber ride in Antigua city: 20 GTQ (~$2.5 USD)
• 🚤 Lancha boat from Panajachel – San Pedro on Lake Atitlan: 25 GTQ (~$3 USD)

💵 Find out exactly what we spent in Guatemala

Money in Guatemala

The official currency of Guatemala is the Guatemalan Quetzal. Its symbol is GTQ or Q for short, and the plural is Quetzales. It’s divided into 100 centavos.

The exchange rate is currently $1 USD = 7.75 GTQ.

They have notes (1, 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, and 200 quetzales) and coins (1, 5, 10, 25, 50 centavos and 1 quetzal). The notes have the national bird and namesake of the currency, the quetzal, and each note is a different bright colour which makes it easy to use.

As is common in the region, you don’t want to get stuck with big notes as getting change can be notoriously difficult, especially from small local shops, on public transport or at markets.

We were able to pay with a mix of cash and card all over the country. In touristy centres like Antigua and Flores, it was very common to be able to pay for most things with card, without any fee. The more remote you get, the less likely you will be able to pay with card, or if you can, there will be a hefty % fee attached.

Always carry cash and it’s safest to assume you can’t pay with card unless it’s a big expense that you’ve confirmed in advance.

ATMs are prevalent all over the country and there are usually a handful in every town. The exception to that is Lanquin (for Semuc Champey), where there is only one and it’s often out of order.

Unfortunately, there are no fee-free ATMs in Guatemala. We tried multiple banks, but every one we tried charged at least 44 Q (~$5 USD) to withdraw.

The most common banks are 5B, BAC and BI. Most ATMs will let you withdraw up to 2,500 Q, and to avoid the withdrawal fee, you should get out the maximum amount and safely store it in your luggage.

You may see some prices quoted in USD, particularly for expensive tours or accommodations, but payment is primarily in Quetzales, and USD is less accepted than it is in neighbouring countries like Belize or Costa Rica. Paying in USD will almost always get you a worse rate than paying in local currency.

Exchanging currency is difficult and is not the best strategy for managing your money in Guatemala. Banks are extremely picky about the condition of US bills and are unlikely to accept any other currency. Withdrawing from an ATM is a quicker and easier option.

Tipping in Guatemala

Tipping culture is not as crucial in Guatemala as it is in places like the US. 

Most restaurants (unless they are very informal/street food) will usually add a 10% service charge to your bill, this is sufficient. If it’s not included, add it yourself.

If you’re staying in a nicer hotel with porters and daily room service, a few quetzales is a kind gesture. As is a tip for a great tour or a good driver, but it’s uncommon you would be asked or expected to tip. 

Phones and SIM cards in Guatemala

The two major phone providers in Guatemala are Tigo and Claro.

Both options work pretty well all over the country, but Tigo has a slight edge on coverage. We both went with Tigo and were happy with our choice.

Both offer decent pre-paid plans, with a fair amount of data included and usually unlimited usage of certain social media apps, like WhatsApp, Facebook, Instagram etc.

Tigo has a 30-day pre-paid plan with 13 GB of data allowance plus free social media for 110 Q ($14 USD), but their plans start from as little as 1 day if you’ve got a shorter trip. Claro has a similar deal with 12 GB for 30 days with unlimited social for the same price.

If there is an actual Claro or Tigo store at your first destination, I would recommend going there to purchase the SIM card and have them set it up for you. They will explain the data plans and make sure everything is working. Bring your passport. 

If there aren’t any stores, you can buy SIM cards from most convenience stores or tiendas around the country. Just look for a Claro or Tigo logo. Some will say you can only top up an existing plan, but most should sell you a SIM. Just ask them very nicely in the best Spanish you can to set up the card for you and put you on the correct data plan. 

If you’ve entered Guatemala from another Central American country like Nicaragua, Honduras or El Salvador and already have a Claro or Tigo SIM card, it SHOULD keep working in Guatemala. 

On the flip side, if you’re travelling onwards from Guatemala, your phone should keep working in Honduras or El Salvador. Our Guatemalan SIM plan worked perfectly in both of these countries.

However, you can’t top up your SIM card outside the country where you originally bought it. So before you leave your previous destination (El Salvador, Honduras or Nicaragua) top up your SIM card as much as you can, to get through your stay in Guatemala, or vice versa if you’re travelling onwards after Guatemala.

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Food and drink to try in Guatemala

I’ll be honest, I didn’t love the cuisine in Guatemala.

It pains me to say this as I am usually so excited to hunt out and eat all the local food, but we just didn’t think the food was that great in Guatemala! We also found it difficult to find good local food, and it was either street food or international restaurants, with not a lot in between.

Central America as a whole isn’t known for its gastronomy, and Guatemala sadly was no exception for us. The cuisine is typical of the region, with most meals using corn, beans and plantains in some form, plenty of meat and a lot of coffee and chocolate. A lot of food is similar to what you’d find in Mexico, but the quality and flavours are not the same standard.

Luckily there is an incredible international foodie scene around the country. So even though we weren’t big fans of Guatemala’s local cuisine, we still ate good! It did come at a slightly increased price to eat at cafes and international restaurants vs on the street and at local restaurants, but the quality and value were worth it in our opinion.

There are a few local dishes and drinks that are definitely worth trying and I hope you find some elements of Guatemalan cuisine that you love.

Some of the most popular dishes and drinks in Guatemalan cuisine that you should try are:

• 🥘 Pepián: Guatemala’s national dish, pepián is a thick, meaty stew that originates from Mayan times. It can be made with many different types of meat, but chicken is the most popular option. The sauce is made from a mix of chillis, spices and tomatoes blended into a creamy stew texture served with rice and a side of tortillas.

• 🍳 Desayuno tipico: the ‘typical breakfast’ is similar in all Central American countries and Guatemala is no exception. This was one of my favourite meals throughout our 6 months travelling the region. The exact inclusions vary from restaurant to restaurant, but you can expect to get a plate with eggs, fried plantain, beans, avocado, white cheese, some crema and usually some tortillas or bread on the side. 

• 🫔 Tamales: maybe we didn’t look hard enough, but despite being a very popular part of Guatemalan cuisine, we didn’t come across tamales all that often. If we did, we would have eaten more of them because we love tamales! Guatemela’s tamales are slightly different from the Mexican version and are usually cooked inside a banana leaf instead of a corn husk, with different traditional fillings.

• 🫓 Tostadas: a crispy fried tortilla spread with a layer of either refried beans, guacamole or red salsa, then topped with things like meat, salads, onions, cilantro etc. They’re a very popular street food around Guatemala, and the crispy, crunchy tortilla is a nice change from soft taco tortillas (also common, but nowhere near as good as in Mexico).

• 🍤 Tapado: if you make it to Livingston on the Caribbean coast, the cuisine changes drastically. The Garifuna people have a really different style of food to the rest of the country, with rich coconut flavours and lots of seafood. The best thing to try is tapado, a coconut seafood soup with plantain.

• 🍗 Tipico lunch or dinner plate: this differs a lot around the country and the name I’m using isn’t official but like breakfast, main meals for lunch or dinner are served in a similar vein. You choose your protein, which might be polla a la leña (rotisserie chicken), churrasco (a cut of steak), chuleta (pork chop) or seafood if you’re in the right area, served with a standard set of accompaniments. There will usually be a slaw or salad of some kind, a stack of warm tortillas, rice, beans, fried plantains, cheese, sometimes avocado or basically whatever the kitchen is whipping up that day!

• ☕️ Coffee: Guatemala grows some of the world’s best coffee beans, so it stands to reason that the coffee here is good. It is! There are excellent cafes with skilled baristas all over the country, that can prepare locally grown coffee beans however you like.

• 🥛 Aguas frescas: sometimes referred to as refrescos, or refrescos naturales, these non-alcoholic drinks are common in Mexico, but are found all over Guatemala too. Usually served streetside from huge plastic vats, there are flavours like tamarindo (tamarind), horchata (sweet rice milk) and jamaica (hibiscus flower). They’re cheap, refreshing and delicious!

Guatemala travel guide: Final thoughts

I hope this Guatemala travel guide has inspired and equipped you for your trip, and hopefully added a few other destinations to your hit list, outside of just Antigua and Lake Atitlan.

Whether you’re backpacking Guatemala or travelling on a higher budget, this country has a rich diversity of landscapes, cultures and experiences on offer. The colour and vibrancy of Guatemala are like nowhere else in the region, and I hope you experience the full spectrum of the rainbow in Guatemala like we did.

Don’t forget to check out our other Guatemala articles, for more detailed guides to the best destinations around the country. Drop any other questions about Guatemala in the comments!

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