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Located in the Bay Islands in the Caribbean Sea, Utila has become a world-renowned scuba diving destination and is known for being one of the cheapest places in the world to dive.
Scuba is a big part of Utila’s identity, and it also has a bit of a reputation as a backpacker party hub. But they aren't the only things this island has to offer.
We loved all the other parts of Utila just as much, if not even more than the diving experience. And you don't have to be a partier to fall in love with this island.
There are gorgeous beaches, easy access to remote tropical cays (hello Water Cay!), stunning sunsets, some delicious restaurants and blissful tropical vibes.
In this post, I’m going to share everything you need to plan your time in Utila. Including a rundown on getting to the island on the ferry and how to get around, where to stay (dive school or otherwise) and some important travel tips to help make your trip as seamless as possible!
Don't have time to read this whole post? Here's the lowdown 👇🏼
- Get to Utila most commonly via ferry from La Ceiba on the mainland (45 minutes) or the neighbouring island of Roatan (1 hour)
- The majority of the activity on the island happens in Utila Town, in the southeast corner. If you're staying near Main Street, you can mostly get around on foot. Although there are tuk-tuks as well as scooter, golf cart or ATV rentals
- The majority of dive schools offer accommodation to students and divers. There is limited good quality non-dive-related accommodation
- The island revolves around scuba and there are dozens of dive shops to choose from which offer comprehensive packages for PADI courses or fun dives
- There are so many other things to do besides diving, like going to Water Cay, enjoying Neptune's and Chepe's Beach and exploring the island by ATV
- Some of the best places to eat are La Casita, The Pelican, Josie's, RJ's and Costa Dulce
- There are a handful of grocery and produce stores, although prices are high. There is one ATM and you can buy SIM cards from local tiendas
How to get there
Utila is an island, which means you’ve got two ways to get here: boat or plane.
⛴️ BY FERRY
The most common way to get to Utila is by ferry. There are services from La Ceiba on the mainland and from neighbouring island Roatan.
From La Ceiba, the trip is about 45 minutes – 1 hour, but it can take longer depending on the conditions. The boats are proper, huge ferries, but even still the journey can be rough (although I think getting to Roatan is a bumpier ride, which we experienced).
The route is primarily run by Dream Ferries, but we booked our tickets via Bookaway which shows all the providers and times in one place.
There are also services from the neighbouring island of Roatan, which takes about one hour. Check schedules and book tickets from Roatan – Utila here.
⛴️ Book your ferry tickets from La Ceiba to Utila or Roatan to Utila
🚌 GETTING TO LA CEIBA
The city of La Ceiba is accessible by local bus or tourist shuttle from several other destinations around Honduras, and neighbouring countries:
- San Pedro Sula: take the Transportes Cristina bus from the Terminal Metropolitana de Buses
- Lago de Yojoa: Roneey Shuttle runs an (almost) direct tourist shuttle, otherwise take the El Mochito chicken bus from Los Naranjos to San Pedro Sula, and follow the instructions above
- Copan Ruinas: take the Hedman Alas coach or the Casasola Express colectivo van from Copan Ruinas to San Pedro Sula and follow the instructions above.
- Guatemala: we arrived in La Ceiba from Rio Dulce in Guatemala on the Roneey Shuttle service that runs from Antigua – La Ceiba a few times per week.
✈️ BY AIR
This is the less common option, although possible.
There are occasional flights to Utila (UII) from the large mainland city of San Pedro Sula (SAP). The schedule isn’t consistent, and if flights run, there’s only a handful each week.
The trip is only 40 minutes, but I’ve heard it can be a rough ride on a tiny plane.
We saw the airport, it’s no more than a strip of concrete and didn’t inspire much confidence!
If you’re travelling to Utila from outside of Honduras, you’re better off flying to neighbouring Roatan (RTB) which has a proper international airport, and then taking the ferry to Utila (I would suggest a few days in Roatan too!).
🏝️ Wondering if you should visit Roatan as well as Utila? We say YES! But if you've only got time for one island on your Honduras itinerary, we've got an entire post dedicated to comparing Roatan vs Utila.
Orientation of Utila
Although Utila is quite a large island, 90% of the development is confined to the southeast corner.
This is known as Utila town, and there is basically one main road that runs along the bay, housing pretty much all the dive shops, accommodations, restaurants and amenities.
There are a couple of roads that branch inland from here with some residential areas and accommodations, but the majority of the time, you will be wandering along that one road along the bay, aptly named ‘Main Street’.
At the western end of the bay is Chepe’s Beach, and at the eastern end is Bando’s Beach. These two beaches sandwich almost everything you’ll need in Utila.
This road is a hive of activity, there are tuk-tuks and ATVs flying down, vendors with tables spilling out into the street and no sidewalk. It manages to work pretty well, but it’s a bit of a hectic vibe.
I do recommend renting an ATV for the day and exploring the northeast corner of the island, which has a few roads you can cruise around along. However, for the most part, your time will largely be spent in this area.
Getting around
When you land on the ferry, you will be smack bang in the middle of Main Street (see ‘Dream Ferries’ on the map above).
For 99% of people, your accommodation/dive school will be within walking distance of here, turning either left (west) or right (east) as you walk off the ferry dock.
If you’re staying around here, you can get around on foot for the majority of your time in Utila. It takes about 30 minutes to walk from Chepe’s to Bandos Beach or vice versa.
If you’re looking at accommodation that is a substantial distance away from the waterfront on Main Street, then you’ll need to consider carefully how long it will take you to get to and from this area, and if you can do it on foot, or you need to hire transport.
If this is the case, or you’re staying central but you want to go somewhere that is too far to walk, or you’re hot and lazy (valid!), there are a couple of other ways to get around on Utila:
- 🛺 Tuk-tuk: these are the taxis of Utila, and they zip up and down the main street. There seem to be some relatively fixed prices for different destinations, but it depends on the driver and the day, so always ask a few times and try to negotiate before you set off.
- 🚲 Bicycle rental: it’s not really worth renting a bike for the duration of your stay if you’re staying in the heart of town, because you probably wouldn’t use it daily, but it can be a nice way to get around if you’re staying further out.
- 🛵 ATV, scooter or golf cart: the motorised version of transport in Utila, that can be rented primarily from Ronney’s Rentals. If you’re staying on or near Main Street, you really don’t need one. But as I mentioned, it’s nice to spend a day exploring a little further afield.
Where to stay in Utila
A lot of the accommodation in Utila is tied to the dive schools.
If you’re doing a PADI course or a package of qualified fun dives, you will usually get free (dorm) accommodation included.
If a dorm isn’t your vibe and you’re looking for something private, most dive schools also offer private rooms with varying amenities.
It won’t be included for free, but if you’re diving with them, it will be discounted. We paid $44 USD for a private room with a bathroom and AC, and I think this is a pretty standard rate.
The accommodation at the dive schools is usually in a fantastic location right on the waterfront. However, the quality is varied, amenities are limited and it can be a bit noisy as the crowd trends towards younger backpackers.
Read more about the accommodation situation with the dive schools in my Utila scuba diving guide.
If you’re not diving, or you don’t want to stay with your dive school, there are other options on the islands that offer a more luxurious, quiet experience, sometimes with self-catering facilities too. These options are generally in the higher price range, and they are limited, so don’t leave booking too late.
Some top-rated options (there are some very poorly rated and bad quality options to sift through too on Utila!):
- Hamaca Hostel: if you so happen to not be diving, but you're looking for budget accommodation, Hamaca is the only hostel that operates externally. I think one of the dive schools also uses it, but it's got a great waterfront location.
- The Odyssey Resort: this option takes the best of the dive schools (waterfront location, dock for swimming and watching the sunset) and adds all the missing elements (kitchen facilities in most rooms, privacy, peace and quiet). My top choice if we didn’t stay at a dive school!
- MANURII Boutique Hotel: this option sacrifices the waterfront location, but makes up for it with its impeccable tropical design, lush gardens and pool area. It’s still within walking distance of the main street, but there are no kitchen facilities.
- Mango Inn Resort: a short walk from the main street in a lush, tropical area this rustic option varies a lot depending on your room category. They have basic dorms for their arrangement with Utila Dive Centre, but if you’ve got a bit more to splash, you can get a self-contained cottage with a kitchen.
- Coral Beach Village Resort: this is not close to town, in fact, you have to take a boat to get there. But, it is located on one of the prettiest beaches on the island, Neptune’s, and has a proper holiday vibe if you just want to relax for a few days. The beachfront bungalows look like paradise!
Airbnb is also a great resource for finding accommodation in Utila.
Utila Honduras travel tips
- 🌤️ When to visit: Utila and the Bay Islands have quite a different wet/dry season to the rest of the region. Utila’s rainy season kicks off in late September and can continue into February. The best time to visit Utila for (almost) guaranteed dry, hot and sunny days is March to August. This is also the best time for diving with the calmest seas and best visibility.
- 🗓️ How long to stay: you could easily spend weeks in Utila, and many travellers get stuck here. Don’t underestimate how much you’ll love this island, and if you’re doing a course, you can pretty much count on being upsold to the Advanced Open Water too. Allocated some spare time for non-dive related activities, at a minimum, allow a week.
- 🗣️ Language: the official language in Honduras is Spanish, but most people living in Utila can speak English. This isn’t uncommon in the Caribbean, where locals speak Creole, which is a unique version of English, although Utila is full of international dive masters from all over the world.
- 💰 Currency: the official currency is the Honduran Lempira (HNL). Unlike in Roatan, everything is priced in Lempira in Utila, except for bigger costs, like your dive school courses and fees which are in USD (although this can be paid for in Lempira).
Scuba diving
Utila lives and breathes scuba diving.
Whether you’re diving for the first time and want to get your PADI certification, or you’re a qualified diver keen to spend more time underwater, you’ll find a dive school for you in Utila.
The sheer amount of choice can be confusing and overwhelming when it comes to selecting a dive school. Most offer free accommodation (dorms), but packages differ slightly, have different price points, and some schools are better for students vs qualified divers and vice versa.
I’ve got a more detailed guide to scuba diving in Utila that helps to unpack your options a little better and give an overview of how the whole dive scene works in Utila.
Best things to do in Utila
There are so many things to do in Utila, including and in addition to scuba diving.
I’ve got an entire post dedicated to the top 16 things to do in Utila, with a ton more information.
But for a brief summary, here are my Utila highlights:
- 🏝️ Spend the day at Water Cay: a remote and untouched slice of tropical paradise! A tiny island just off the coast of Utila, sunbathe, swim and snorkel in heaven at Water Cay.
- 🍹 Hang out at Neptune’s Beach: a restaurant/beach club with one of the best beaches on the island. Take a short boat ride through the mangrove canals to get here.
- 🏍️ Rent an ATV for the day: to explore the further reaches of the island, including Pumpkin Hill. Follow our self-guided ATV route.
- ⛱️ Relax at Chepe’s Beach: a public beach with cute palapas in the water, the perfect place for a lazy non-diving afternoon.
- 🐶 Walk a doggy at Jasper’s Animal Shelter: go and give some loving to the rescued street dogs at Jasper’s.
Best restaurants in Utila
For such a small place, Utila has some seriously good restaurants!
This is good, because groceries are very expensive and limited on the island, and kitchen facilities are few and far between at the dive school accommodations.
I’ve got another dedicated post to the best restaurants in Utila, but here are some highlights:
- 🌮 La Casita: our choice for baleadas, but only if they’re not busy! Be prepared for astonishingly long waits otherwise.
- 🍜 The Pelican: great Thai food and great pasta. How? I don’t know, it just works! A little pricier, but very good.
- ☕️ Josie’s: great cafe that opens early for pre-dive coffee and food, mostly bagels, smoothies and loaded toasts.
- 🍦 Costa Dulce: I’m still dreaming about the dulce de leche ice cream from here!
- 🐠 RJ’s: a local institution serving up home-style meals, with your choice of protein (fish, chicken, meat) that comes on a plate loaded with salads, rice, bread and other sides.
Nightlife
If there’s one thing Utila does better than diving, it’s partying.
People say West End in Roatan is a good place for nightlife, but it’s got nothing on Utila.
Being (feeling?) old, boring and antisocial as we are, we didn’t really participate. I love sleep too much, especially when you’re diving every day and up very early (trust me, you’ll be exhausted!).
But after you’ve finished with your diving, this is where the party’s at in Utila:
- Tequila Tuesdays at Tranquila
- Treetanic Bar
- Skid Row
- La Cueva
- Weekly karaoke and trivia nights at Underwater Vision
Most of the bars are clustered around the western end of the bay, so keep that in mind when selecting your dive school/accommodation.
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Amenities on the island
- 🏧 ATMs: there is a bank-affiliated ATM near the ferry dock, it’s red and white and has a secure room. Cash is king on Utila, so come with plenty.
- 🍞 Groceries: there are a number of supermarkets in town, Bush’s being the largest. There are smaller tiendas too, but be aware that things are expensive here, having to be transported from the mainland (read more about Honduras trip costs).
- 🍍 Fruit and vegetables: there was a cute and colourful fruit and veg on Main Street (east of the ferry dock) that was usually well-stocked, although ran low before delivery day.
- 📱 Phones: we came to Utila with a SIM card already, but I believe you can buy them from any tienda, you can definitely top up there. Claro and Tigo are the best providers.
Final thoughts on Utila
Utila is a tropical paradise in Honduras, whether you’re a scuba diver or not. And whether you want to party or not!
This island draws you in, and if you end up staying longer than you originally anticipated, you won’t be the only one.
Don’t forget to check out our other Utila guides for more info on the best things to do, diving and where to eat.
MORE UTILA POSTS
- 16 Best Things to Do in Utila, Honduras (Diving & More)
- Complete Guide to Scuba Diving in Utila
- How to Visit Water Cay Utila: Untouched Tropical Heaven
- Renting an ATV in Utila: Self-Guided Island Adventure
- Our Top 10 Restaurants in Utila, Honduras
- Roatan vs Utila: Which Honduran Island is Right for You?
