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Visiting Ometepe in Nicaragua was a highlight of our entire 6 months in Central America.
This magical island made up of two volcanoes is unlike anywhere we’ve ever been before. Floating in Central America’s largest lake, Lake Nicaragua, Ometepe is a special place.
We spent almost a week exploring every inch of the island, never tiring of the huge volcanoes looming overhead, the stunning sunsets over the lake, the delicious food at Cafe Campestre and the ultimate sense of adventure that comes with cruising down dusty roads on an ATV.
We adored Isla de Ometepe, and I hope with the help of this guide you will too!
Read on for everything you need to know about Ometepe Nicaragua – how to get to the island and avoid scams in the infamous Rivas, the best way to get around which will make or break your stay, which area to base yourself, the top things to do, best eats and key travel info like ATMs and grocery stores.
About Ometepe Nicaragua
Ometepe, Isla de Ometepe, Ometepe Island, however you like to call it, is an island located in Lake Nicaragua (aka Lago Cocibolca).
This isn’t just any island though! It comprises two twin volcanoes and has a unique figure-8 shape.
At the northern end is Volcan Concepcion, an active ‘fire’ volcano, with a lava-filled crater and frequent plumes of smoke billowing out. The southern part of the island is dominated by the inactive Volcan Maderas, known as the ‘water’ volcano, for its crater lake, underwater rivers and waterfalls on its slopes.
The island is much bigger than you first expect, and it takes hours to drive from one end to the other. The biggest town and major commercial hub is Moyogalpa, where the ferry arrives on the Concepcion side of the island.
Much of the tourist activity is concentrated on the Maderas side of the island and the narrow isthmus connecting the two. Santo Domingo and Santa Cruz are two of the island’s most popular beaches, Balgue has become a bustling backpacker hub, and neighbouring Merida is remote but growing in popularity.
The island is surprisingly populated by more than 40,000 people, but due to its huge size and dispersed nature, it feels more like a collection of laidback rural towns.
The island’s economy is mainly agriculture and farming. It’s not uncommon to be held up by groups of cows being herded across the road, or cute pigs playing on the shoulder.
Ometepe is a unique and magical place, unlike anywhere we’ve visited before. The combination of authentic rural life, beautiful nature, the omnipresent volcanoes looming above you, and the peaceful lake creates something really special.
I was worried it wouldn’t live up to the hype, but after visiting, I can confirm – it does!
Nicaragua map
Getting to Ometepe
Being an island, you’ll have to get on a boat at some point in your journey to Ometepe! The most common and frequent ferry route is from the town of San Jorge. There are a few different ways of getting there depending on your travel style and budget.
GETTING TO SAN JORGE
Option 1: Getting to San Jorge via Rivas (bus + bus or taxi) 🚌
San Jorge itself isn’t very well connected to the rest of the country, but it’s just 10 minutes from the major transport hub of Rivas. No matter where you are in Nicaragua, you can easily get a bus to Rivas.
There are direct buses to Rivas from San Juan del Sur (if you’re staying at one of the neighbouring beaches like Playa Maderas you will need to travel via SJDS), Granada and Managua.
If you’re in Leon or other northern destinations, you’ll need to go via Managua. The Rivas buses depart from the Terminal de Autobuses Mercado Roberto Huembes.
Beware, Rivas is scam city and there is ongoing collusion between the bus drivers and taxi drivers to overcharge tourists and rip them off with expensive taxi rides for the 10-minute trip to the ferry port.
As you approach Rivas, bus drivers will often trick tourists into getting off before you arrive at the terminal. Taxis will be waiting to rip you off for a very pricey ride to the port, and you’ll have no other choice on the side of the road.
If you can, you should stay on the bus until it terminates at the Rivas bus terminal. From here you have a few options.
There is a bus/colectivo that goes between Rivas and San Jorge from this location, but as far as I know, it only runs hourly so it may not be that convenient. I believe this should cost 10 Cordobas or less.
If you don’t want to wait for the bus, ignore the thieving taxi drivers who will be no doubt hassling you as soon as you get off the bus. They try and charge insane amounts for a very short trip.
Instead, exit the bus terminal, regather your thoughts and find a taxi in neighbouring streets. You should pay around 30 Cordoba per person for the trip.
Option 2: Getting to San Jorge via tourist shuttle 🚐
If you’re coming from a destination without a direct connection to Rivas (e.g. Popoyo, Leon) and you don’t feel like a multi-bus journey, or you just can’t be bothered dealing with scammy taxi and bus drivers, you can get a tourist shuttle directly to San Jorge.
🚐 Browse for shuttles to San Jorge on Bookaway
Organising a taxi or private driver is also a common and cost-effective option, particularly from Popoyo which has little public transport. This is what we did to get from Popoyo to Ometepe, and you can find more info about different transport companies in Popoyo in our guide.
Option 3: Getting to San Jorge from Costa Rica 🇨🇷
While most people will hop across the Costa Rica border at Peñas Blancas and make a beeline for the beaches around San Juan del Sur, you could go straight to Ometepe.
It’s easy enough to get a bus from the border to Rivas and then follow the instructions above.
Alternatively, the international buses Ticabus and Nicabus run between Costa Rica and Nicaragua and stop in Rivas. Their route is usually San Jose, Costa Rica – Managua, Nicaragua but you can get on or off at various points along the way.
You can also take a tourist shuttle from multiple destinations in Costa Rica to San Jorge. This works better if you’re not near a destination along the Tica/Nica bus route.
SAN JORGE TO OMETEPE FERRY
Once you make it to San Jorge, you can board the ferry to Ometepe.
Note that there are two ferry routes from San Jorge:
- ⛴️ San Jorge – Moyogalpa: this is the main town on Ometepe. You might be staying here, but even if you’re not, it’s still a more convenient jump-off point to get a bus or rent a vehicle (car, scooter, ATV etc.) to get to your final destination. These ferries are the most frequent and popular.
- ⛴️ San Jorge – San Jose del Sur: there are a handful of ferries each day to the small town of San Jose. It’s 20 minutes south of Moyogalpa which does make it closer to the Maderas side of the island where you might be staying (Balgue, Merida etc.). However, there are fewer bus connections and no vehicle rental companies here. Unless you’ve organised a private transfer from the ferry to your accommodation, I wouldn’t arrive in San Jose.
There are 14 departures per day to Moyogalpa, the first at 7:00 am and the last at 5:45 pm. They generally depart every 30 – 60 minutes. There are fewer departures on Sunday.
This timetable is frequently updated and is the best source of information I’ve found.
Several companies run the route. Some use large, comfortable but slightly slower ferries, others run the route on smaller but quicker lancha boats. The timetable shows if a departure is on a ferry or a lancha.
Either way, the journey will only take an hour or so, and unless you’re very prone to seasickness (choose the ferry) it doesn’t really matter what option you go for.
There is no need to book your tickets in advance unless you’re travelling with a vehicle. If you’re just a foot passenger, you can turn up at the port and buy a ticket for the next departure. Each company charges different prices, but they range from 35 – 50 Cordoba.
Note that there is also a fee for foreigners to access and use the port. It feels like a bit like a cash grab, but it is what it is. It’s only 36 Cordoba / $1 USD.
Ignore anyone at the port trying to sell you scooter/ATV rentals or tours of the island. You can organise all of this much cheaper when you arrive in Moyogalpa.
There is the option to take the ferry directly from Granada to Isla de Ometepe across Lake Nicaragua. I know this sounds like a very easy travel route, but it’s actually not as convenient as it sounds. It only runs once per week on a Monday evening, and it docks in Altagracia at 10:00 pm, which is not the most convenient place or time to start your Ometepe adventures. It’s also a long, 4-hour ride on the lake which can be quite choppy. There is very little information about this route published online, this is the latest info I found.
Getting around Ometepe
If there’s one thing that’s critical you get right when planning your time in Ometepe, it’s working out how you’re getting to get around the island.
This island is huge! It might not look like it on the map, but it takes hours to drive from one side to the other. And all the best things to do, different towns, accommodations etc. are spread far and wide across the entire island.
To give you an idea of distance, here is a random assortment of distances you might encounter on the island, using Balgue as an example base. These are the driving times in Google Maps for a car, you need to add a fair chunk of time onto this if you’re on a motorbike/ATV, as you’ll be going much slower.
- 📍 Moyogalpa – Balgue: 50 minutes
- 📍 Balgue – Merida: 15 minutes
- 📍 Balgue – Ojo de Agua: 15 minutes
- 📍 Balgue – San Ramon Waterfall: 30 minutes
- 📍 Balgue – Volcan Concepcion trailhead: 45 minutes
- 📍 Balgue – Charco Verde Nature Reserve: 30 minutes
What I’m trying to say is you need to think very carefully about how you’ll get around this island and I HIGHLY recommend renting a vehicle of some sort.
Here are your main transport options to consider:
- 🛵 Scooter: the cheapest and most common way to get around the island. You can rent scooters from pretty much anywhere (rental agencies, travel agents, hostels, accommodations etc.) in Moyogapa and on the Maderas side of the island.
Expect to pay around $15 – $20 USD per day. They’re great for the paved roads but don’t work so well on the very bumpy unpaved area of the island. We saw lots of cuts and scrapes on travellers!
- 🏍️ Motorbike: if you know how to ride a proper motorbike (not an automatic scooter), that can be a better choice for handling the dirt roads. Motorbikes are not as common to come by but are still easy enough to find. Expect to pay $20 – $25 USD per day.
- 🛻 ATV: the safest and most comfortable way to explore the island, an ATV can handle any and all terrain. It’s also great if you’re a couple and plan to transport your luggage given it’s a larger vehicle.
They are quite a bit more expensive, at $50 – $60 USD per day which was a hit to our budget, but we rationalised this by choosing cheaper accommodation in a more remote part of Merida (dirt roads!). Spending the money on an ATV was the best choice we made on Ometepe.
Our recommended rental agencies for scooters/bikes/ATVs:
- Dinarte’s Rental | 📍 Moyogalpa
- Green Expeditions Rentals | 📍 Moyogalpa
- Ortiz Rental | 📍 Balgue
- Moto Adventure Ometepe | 📍 Balgue
Most agencies will offer you a discount for a multi-day rental. The longer you rent, the cheaper it will be which is why I think it’s best to bite the bullet and rent a vehicle for your entire stay. They might also drop off vehicles at your accommodation.
- 🚗 Car: if you’re not comfortable with a motorbike-type of vehicle, there are a handful of cars for rent around the island. They are less common and quite a lot more expensive. Expect to pay $80 – $90 USD per day.
There are basic sedans for rent but in a similar vein to a scooter, it won’t get you everywhere. It’s best to fork out for a 4WD or pick-up truck so you’ve got the freedom to drive everywhere. Ometepe Rent a Car has the biggest range, but some of the other rental agencies do have 1 or 2 cars.
- 🚌 Bus: there is a bus service on Ometepe, but it is very slow and not necessarily that convenient. It runs from the Concepcion side (Moyogalpa, Altagracia) to the Maderas side (Santa Cruz, Balgue, Merida) and back, but it doesn’t always travel to all the destinations mentioned above. It also doesn’t help with the many attractions that are tucked away down side roads. This site has what appears to be an updated bus schedule.
- 🚐 Transfers and tours: if you don’t rent a vehicle but the bus isn’t suitable, the only other way to get around the island is private transfers or tours. There are taxis and private drivers all over, and lots of different island tours depart from Moyogalpa.
I really don’t think this is the best way to see the island, and I think would end up costing you more than renting a vehicle.
The exception is if you want to rent a vehicle on some but not all days of your stay, and you need to get to your accommodation from the ferry. Most accommodations can arrange or recommend a private driver, otherwise, Ometepe Taxi is a reputable option. Expect to pay at least $40 USD to get from Moyogalpa to the Maderas side of the island.
Ometepe Taxi also runs a once-daily shared transfer from Balgue – Moyogalpa and Moyogalpa – Balgue if you can line up your ferry times.
Where and when to rent your transport
If you have made the very wise call to rent some kind of personal transport, whether that be a car, an ATV, a scooter, a motorbike etc. you need to decide when and where you’re going to rent it. This decision may impact what kind of vehicle you get, it did for us.
- ⛴️ Renting in Moyogalpa: the ferry arrives in Moyogalpa, and chances are you’re not staying here, so you need to work out how you’re getting from the ferry to your accommodation in another part of the island.
You can rent a vehicle straight up from Moyogalpa. There is the biggest concentration of rental agencies here so you’ll have full choice, it also means you don’t have to pay for a taxi/transfer or take a very slow bus if you’re planning to rent a vehicle on the island anyway.
You need to consider your luggage though, and this is part of the reason why we decided to rent an ATV over a scooter. We had all our backpacks and it would have been impossible to fit them on one scooter with the both of us (plus I’m an idiot who can’t drive a scooter so an ATV was a decent choice for us!). If you’re just one person, you can usually balance your big bag okay on a scooter if that’s what you’d prefer to rent.
- 🌿 Renting at your accommodation: if you’re staying on the other (Maderas) side of the island, you can rent scooters/ATVs here too. There are a handful of rental agencies in Balgue, but most accommodations can also organise rentals.
This is a good choice if you aren’t planning to rent a vehicle for your entire stay. If you’re staying in Balgue for example, there are a few sights and activities you can see without a vehicle, so you might just like to rent one for a day or two as needed.
This means you’ll need to work out how to get from the ferry port to your accommodation and back (bus, shared shuttle, private transfer).
Where to stay in Ometepe
Along with working out how to get around the island, choosing where to stay in Ometepe is a tricky decision! The most popular areas to stay in are Moyogalpa (Concepcion side), Santo Domingo/Santa Cruz (isthmus area), Balgue and Merida (Maderas side). Each town has a unique personality, and pros and cons around amenities, views, lake access, proximity to attractions etc.
Given how spread out it is, you don’t want to end up in a town you don’t like! This is a pretty important decision and one most people, ourselves included, deliberate on for quite some time.
I’ve got a detailed guide on where to stay in Ometepe, that breaks down the pros and cons of these four areas, with the best accommodation options.
In the meantime, here’s a list of some of the best accommodations around the island. I’ve included their location too.
BUDGET 💰
- La Urraca Loca | 📍 Balgue
- Rosa’s Lake Cabins | 📍 Merida
- Rancho Tranquillo | 📍 Moyogalpa
MID-RANGE 💰💰
- El Bamboo Cabins | 📍 Balgue
- Ometepe Casitas | 📍 Merida
- Casa Papaki | 📍 Merida
BOUTIQUE LUXURY 💰💰💰
- Totoco Eco Resort | 📍 Balgue
- Xalli Beach Hotel | 📍 Santo Domingo / Santa Cruz
- Hotel Victoria | 📍 Moyogalpa
😴 Read our complete guide on where to stay in Ometepe
Things to do in Ometepe
There are so many great things to do in Ometepe, I’ve got a dedicated post to the top 20 things to do.
As a quick preview, these are my absolute must-do things in Ometepe:
- 🌞 Watch the sunset from Playa Mangos or Playa El Peru: this was my favourite part of Ometepe. Both these beaches are stunning, with incredible views of the Volcan Concepcion and a perfect sunset vantage point.
- 🌋 Hike a volcano: if you’re up for a challenge, you can hike Volcan Concepcion or Volcan Maderas (or both!). Both options are tough, full-day treks. A guide is required for Concepcion and is highly recommended for Maderas.
- 🛶 Kayak the Rio Istian: paddle through the calm waterways of the Rio Istian, looking for birds, monkeys, turtles and caimans. Plan your paddle for late afternoon and enjoy the golden hour on the water.
- 💧 Swim at Ojo de Agua: a natural spring fed from Volcan Maderas, it’s a lush, tropical setting with crystal clear waters. The perfect place to cool off in the Nica heat!
- 🏍️ Cruise around the island: my favourite thing to do in Ometepe was cruise around on our ATV and soak up the scenery. It will take you a couple of days to circumnavigate the whole island, even longer if you’re stopping for hikes and attractions along the way, but it’s so worth going around both volcanoes.
🌋 Read our complete guide to the best 20 things to do in Ometepe
Where to eat in Ometepe
Oh my, the food on Ometepe was DELICIOUS! We had some of our best meals in Nicaragua on this island.
Where you eat kind of depends on where you stay and what transport you’ve opted for, but these are some of our favourite spots! They’re all pinned on my Nica Google Map.
A lot of the popular attractions (Ojo de Agua, Playa El Peru etc.) have restaurants on-site with good, local food. This is handy if you’re cruising around the island for a day and want a convenient stop for lunch, so keep that in mind!
- 🥘 Cafe Campestre 📍 Balgue | if you only eat at one place in Ometepe, make it Cafe Campestre. It was the best food we had had for MONTHS and we ate here every single day of our stay.
They’re famous for their Thai/Indian curries and every one we tried was excellent! But they also have a range of fresh pasta (also delicious!), breakfast options, light bites for lunch and sandwiches, burritos and burgers. I haven’t even mentioned the drinks. Just go – it’s all good!
- ☕️ The Cornerhouse 📍 Moyogalpa | we ate here many times as we arrived, departed and passed through Moyogalpa. It’s very close to the ferry terminal and they do amazing coffee, smoothies, breakfast and lunch. The sandwiches were super fresh and tasty.
- 🍕 Pizzeria Mediterranea Bar Ristorante 📍 Balgue | only open for dinner, this Italian restaurant is in a lovely covered outdoor setting. We tried both pasta and pizza and they were delicious!
- 🥙 Bustavo Food Bus 📍 Balgue | a funky bus converted into a food truck serving tasty Middle Eastern food. The falafel pita was so delicious and a very welcome change from gallo pinto.
- 🍫 El Pital Chocolate Paradise 📍 Balgue | this hostel cum chocolate farm is in a pretty location right on the lake and has, you guessed it, chocolate goodies! As a sweet tooth, I beelined here and spent many afternoons relaxing lakefront eating rich chocolate brownies and drinking iced chocolates. Yum!
- 🍛 Café Comedor Isabel Traditional Nica Food 📍 Balgue | one of the best places to eat in Balgue for an affordable, local meal. Good tipico breakfast, nice juices and smoothies and loaded lunch/dinner plates.
- 🥤 Sodita Regalo De Dios 📍 Moyogalpa | a great local restaurant on the outskirts of Moyogalpa. They make delicious smoothies, and very tasty local food like fish, tipico plates with gallo pinto, plantains etc. and also breakfast.
- 🌮 El Picante Mexican Restaurant 📍 Moyogalpa | this restaurant is like stepping into a secret garden! It is lush, the owners are so friendly and the food is delicious (and properly spicy if you want it!). Try the nachos.
Ometepe Nicaragua travel tips
🇳🇮 Get more Nicaragua travel tips in our Nicaragua travel guide
- 🌤️ Best time to visit: Ometepe isn’t quite as hot as some other places in Nicaragua (looking at you Leon!) but it is warm year-round. The dry season, from November – April, is the best time to visit to avoid rain and humidity.
The dry season does mean the San Ramon Waterfall might not be too strong, and it can make kayaking the Rio Istian tricky (although we had no problems at the end of the dry season). On the flip side, the dry season is when you can see the famous sand spit, Punta Jesus Maria, and it’s the ideal time for hiking the volcanoes with drier, less muddy trails.
- 🗓️ How long to stay: there are so many things to do in Ometepe, and the island is very big, so you’ll want a lot of time to explore. If you’re anything like us and most other travellers, you’ll fall in love with the island! I’d say minimum 5 nights, a week wouldn’t be too long.
- 🫶🏼 Safety: is Ometepe safe? Yes. We felt completely safe all over Isla de Ometepe. It’s such a peaceful, friendly rural island and everyone we encountered was welcoming.
The main safety concern would be driving. Navigating the unpaved roads, watching out for road hazards like cows, horses, pigs and dogs – all very common – and driving at night because most of the island is very poorly lit.
- 🗣️ Language: Spanish is the official language in Nicaragua and is, of course, widely spoken in Ometepe. Ometepe is firmly on the tourist trail though, so you will find some people involved in tourism who speak some English (hostels, tour companies etc.).
- 💰 Currency: the official currency of Nicaragua is the Nicaraguan Córdoba, but you will often see tourist-related expenses quoted in USD. You can usually pay for things in either currency. Ometepe wasn’t as bad as some other destinations for pricing in USD, and besides vehicle rentals, tours and some attractions, pretty much everything was priced and charged in Cordoba.
- 🏧 ATMs: there are only a handful of ATMs in Ometepe so you need to be very aware of your cash and come to the island stocked! Some but not all places accept cards.
There are two ATMs in Moyogalpa (they don’t always work!) and one out the front of Hotel Villa Paraiso in Santo Domingo.
- 📱 Phone & SIM Cards: like many Central American countries, Claro and Tigo are the most popular phone providers in Nicaragua.
I think there is a Claro store in Moyogalpa, it’s on the map but we didn’t notice it in town. It would be safer to come to the island with your phone already sorted if possible. There are Claro and Tigo stores in Rivas.
It is possible to buy or top up a SIM card from a generic phone store or tienda, so I’m sure you’d find somewhere on the island if you were desperate. Just look for a Claro or Tigo sign.
- 🥑 Groceries: there are only two big grocery stores in Ometepe and they are both in Moyogalpa, Pali and Mega Ahorro. If you’re planning to cook at all, I’d recommend doing a big stock-up when you first arrive off the ferry (another reason renting an ATV is good, so you can haul all your stuff!).
There are smaller tiendas, minimarts and fruit and vegetable stores scattered around the island but the selection is more limited. Tienda Santa Cruz at the intersection to Balgue is one of the bigger options, and Ocean Market has just opened in Santa Cruz and looks quite big!
- 💧 Can you drink the water: it’s safest not to drink the water in Ometepe or anywhere else in Nicaragua. Your accommodation should have large garrafónes or jugs with purified water. Please don’t buy single-use plastic bottles.
Final thoughts: Ometepe travel guide
We absolutely adored Ometepe. It was one of the only places in Nicaragua that truly lived up to the hype for us.
I have such fond memories of cruising around the island on our ATV, with a huge volcano looming in front of us, and the sun glistening on the lake next to us. It really is a magical place, with beautiful nature and a calming energy.
I hope this guide helps plan your adventures in Ometepe. Don’t forget to also read where to stay in Ometepe and things to do in Ometepe to round out your planning.
If you’re following our Nicaragua itinerary, your next stop after Ometepe will most likely be San Juan del Sur or its surrounding beaches, or possibly even across the border to Costa Rica. If you’re travelling north, you might have your sights set on the laid-back beach town of Popoyo or the charming colonial city of Granada.
MORE OMETEPE POSTS