San Juan del Sur, Nicaragua Travel Guide: Worth the Hype?

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If you’re thinking about going to Nicaragua, chances are you’ve heard of San Juan del Sur. 

This beach town in the southwestern corner of the country is the most famous tourist destination in Nicaragua, attracting surfers, backpackers and local tourists in droves. 

If you’re travelling through Central America, it’s likely to be your first or last stop in Nicaragua, being right near the border with Costa Rica.  

It’s best known for the weekly ‘Sunday Funday’ pool party for backpackers, and the nearby Pacific Coast beaches good for a dose of surf, sun and sand. 

But San Juan del Sur fell short for us. It ticks a lot of boxes on paper with great cafes, beautiful beaches and good surf. But even with those positives, they couldn’t outweigh the bad, seedy vibe we had in this town. 

Read on for our honest thoughts on San Juan del Sur Nicaragua, plus a travel guide with the things we did enjoy there, to help you make the most of your time in Nica’s most popular beach destination. 

About San Juan del Sur Nicaragua

San Juan del Sur is a beach town on the southwestern Pacific Coast of Nicaragua. Next to volcano boarding, a few days of sea, sun and sand here is the most popular thing to do in Nicaragua. 

San Juan, or SJDS as its often abbreviated too, is the centre of the region with dozens of beaches spread north and south along the aptly named Emerald Coast.

It’s long attracted surfers, and more recently has become a fixture on every backpacker’s route through Nicaragua for the infamous ‘Sunday Funday’. An alcohol-fuelled roaming pool party bouncing between hostels and bars in the area. 

After the political unrest in 2019 and the shutdowns from the pandemic kept foreign visitors at bay, domestic tourism picked up in San Juan del Sur and the town is now a favourite weekend getaway for Nicaraguan’s of all ages. 

It’s one of the most popular surf towns in the country, which is surprising given that the beach in San Juan itself is a calm, waveless bay! All the surfing goes on at the surrounding beaches and everyday 4×4 vehicles herd wannabe surfers and stacks of boards along bumpy dirt tracks to the best breaks. 

In recent times some of these beaches (most notably Playa Maderas) have developed into satellite destinations of their own, with troops of surfers and in-the-know travellers choosing to bypass San Juan del Sur altogether and base themselves in a more relaxed, jungle environment closer to the surf. 

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Is San Juan del Sur worth the hype?

Everything sounds good so far right? So why didn’t we like San Juan del Sur? 

San Juan del Sur was our least favourite destination in Nicaragua, and probably our least favourite beach/surf town that we visited in all of Central America. 

I am not a party person, so Sunday Funday was entirely unappealing to me and immediately struck off one of San Juan’s main selling points. 

Anywhere we’ve visited with bulk booze (and consequently drugs) generally has a bad vibe and this was no exception. 

Even outside of Sunday, the town has a party feel, with people offering you drugs in the street and lots of rowdy bars every night of the week, mostly filled with rough, retired North American expats. There are intoxicated people, both locals and tourists, all over the place, and sadly a lot of very poor families and children begging. 

It felt so seedy and uncomfortable. Not unsafe, that’s not the right word, but it was far from friendly or wholesome, and there was a dark, negative energy we couldn’t escape. We honestly couldn’t wait to leave. 

The main beach in town is dirty, with lots of rubbish on the shore and brown, dirty water. The town is scruffy, which in itself is not a problem and is not unusual in Central America, but it added to the downtrodden feel of the place. 

It’s also very expensive compared to the rest of the country. Again, not unusual for popular beach towns but the value and quality didn’t feel worth it here and it added a lot to our Nicaragua costs.

We also visited Popoyo further north in Nicaragua, and although it wasn’t our favourite, we did prefer it to San Juan. El Paredon in Guatemala, El Zonte in El Salvador and even Playa Maderas just up the road were much more laidback, wholesome options for a surf town.

We just felt San Juan del Sur was entirely overhyped and overrated, especially if you don’t like to party. 

I don’t share this with the purpose of dissuading you from visiting. As you’ll go on to read, there are plenty of things to love about San Juan del Sur. The cafes are excellent, the sunsets are beautiful, the surf at surrounding beaches is great. 

I share this to help manage your expectations. 

As you travel through the region, you’ll hear San Juan spouted again and again, with constant chatter about Sunday Funday, surfing and beaches. It’s easy to believe that this is going to be the best place in Nicaragua, and feel that you need to reserve adequate time in your itinerary. 

I would hate for this to be at the peril of other destinations in Nicaragua like Ometepe, Leon or the Corn Islands, which (in my opinion) have so much more to offer than this seedy surf town. 

So take this as a warning. Don’t change your plans, don’t not visit San Juan del Sur. Just don’t speed through the rest of the country to get here, only to be disappointed when you arrive. 

I hope you absolutely love it, but being pleasantly surprised with low expectations is much better than being sorely disappointed with high ones! 

In the rest of this guide, I’ll highlight the things we did enjoy about San Juan del Sur, and there were plenty. It wasn’t all bad, but if a place has a bad vibe, it doesn’t matter how pretty the beaches are, or how funky the cafes, you can’t ignore it. 

Getting to San Juan del Sur

From within Nicaragua 🇳🇮

If you’re already in Nicaragua, or you’re flying into the international airport in Managua, there are a few ways you can get to San Juan del Sur.

• 🚌 Bus: there are direct buses to San Juan del Sur from Managua that depart from the ​​Terminal de Autobuses Mercado Roberto Huembes. This works if you’re coming from Leon or Managua (town or airport). Alternatively, you’ll need to go via Rivas. There are frequent buses from the main terminal here, which service travellers coming from Granada, Popoyo or San Jorge (for Ometepe). Buses arrive in San Juan at the terminal in front of the Mercado Municipal. 

• 🚕 Taxi: if you’re coming from Ometepe, which is a common route, you might like to take a taxi to San Juan del Sur. You’ll need to get a taxi from the ferry dock in San Jorge to the bus terminal in Rivas anyway, and they are notorious for overcharging. We figured it was easier just to get a taxi the entire way, and what they quoted for a 5-minute trip to Rivas did not compute to what we paid for a 45-minute trip to SJDS, so we took the comfy option! We paid 550 Cordoba (about $15 USD), there are usually other travellers at the ferry dock to share with too.

• 🚐 Shuttle: the easiest, but most expensive way, to travel around Nicaragua is via tourist shuttle. You can get direct shuttles to San Juan del Sur from Leon, Managua including from the airport, Granada, Popoyo etc. You can book shuttles to SJDS online via Bookaway, alternatively, most hostels or accommodations can organise shuttles.

🚐 Book shuttles to or from San Juan del Sur on Bookaway and get 5% off with our code SALLY5

Nicaragua is in the process of building a new highway that will eventually connect the entirety of the Pacific Coast on a smooth, paved road, the Carretera Costanera. The highway is progressing in stages, with most of the current progress in the south around San Juan del Sur and the surrounding beaches. The new highway may change bus/shuttle routes and how you reach and get around SJDS. It’s definitely a lot smoother and quicker to get to neighbouring beaches, but soon enough you can probably go directly to Popoyo via the coast on this highway, which will most likely change common travel routes through Nicaragua.

From Costa Rica 🇨🇷

If you’re travelling northbound through Central America, San Juan del Sur is likely to be your first stop when entering Nicaragua from Costa Rica. There are a few different ways you can make this trip, depending on your budget and final destination in Costa Rica. 

• ✈️ Air: the Liberia International Airport in the Guanacaste Province of Costa Rica is only 3 hours away from San Juan del Sur, and sometimes offers a more affordable or convenient arrival point. From the airport, you can use either transport method outlined below to get to SJDS. 

• 🚌 Bus: Ticabus and Nicabus are long-distance international bus companies that run between Costa Rica and Nicaragua. Their route is San Jose, Costa Rica – Managua, Nicaragua but you can get on or off at various points along the way (on the Panamerican Highway), including at La Virgen turn-off which is where the highway intersects with the road to San Juan del Sur. You can jump in a taxi or local bus (if you’re lucky and one passes) the rest of the way into SJDS. 

• 🚐 Shuttle: as always, getting a tourist shuttle is by far the quickest and easiest way to cross borders. There are shuttles from destinations in Costa Rica like Tamarindo, Monteverde, La Fortuna and from the airport in Liberia. It’s more suitable than the bus if you aren’t coming from San Jose or somewhere easily along the bus route. 

🚐 Book shuttles to or from San Juan del Sur on Bookaway and get 5% off with code SALLY5

At this stage Costa Rica has not announced any plans to open a new border crossing where Nicaragua’s new Coastal Highway will meet, but I anticipate this might change in the future, so do some research before making plans.

Getting around San Juan del Sur

• 👣 On foot: the downtown of San Juan del Sur and the main beach are very easy to get around on foot. If you’re staying centrally, you’ll be able to walk to all the restaurants, cafes, shops, along the beach etc. 

• 🚕 Taxi: if you’re staying on the outskirts of town, or walking up the very steep hill to San Juan’s very own Christ the Redeemer seems like too much effort in the heat, there are taxis all over town. Always agree on a price before hopping in. 

• 🚛 Beach shuttles: the best beaches in San Juan del Sur for surfing and/or swimming are tucked away to the north and south of town, down bumpy, dusty roads (although not all of them anymore). The best way to get to them is via the daily beach shuttles offered by hostel Casa Oro. They run multiple trips per day to Playa Maderas and once-per-day roundtrips to Playa Hermosa and Playa Remanso. Unless you’re a big group, this is cheaper than a taxi.

• 🛵 By motorbike: a fun way to see the outskirts of San Juan and the surrounding beaches is by motorbike. However, you really need to have some riding experience. The steep, bumpy, dirt roads are not really made for scooters, a proper motorbike is better on this terrain. You can also rent ATVs, which are much sturdier. Look into RentaNica, Nica Moto Rentals and Cascante Moto Rentals. In saying that, the new highway is changing things and many beaches now have predominately paved access, but not all – ask around in town before you rent.

• 🛻 By car: if you want freedom and flexibility but don’t want to brave a motorbike, there are a handful of local rental places with 4×4 vehicles available. This is the best way to get around to all the beaches safely and comfortably. Try RentaNica, Dayanna Rent a Car and EC Rent a Car and make sure it is a 4×4. Again, with this new highway, a 4×4 is not strictly necessary anymore, but I’d ask the companies to confirm the pavement status to the beaches you’d like to visit.

Where to stay in San Juan del Sur

Downtown San Juan del Sur is the most convenient place to stay if you’re hoping to make the most of the funky cafes, international restaurants and access to the beach, but this is not where the nicest accommodations are located. 

Most are spread out in the hills around town, in remote pockets of jungle. If you’re not within easy access of town and you don’t care to commute in that often, then my advice is to skip SJDS altogether and just stay in Playa Maderas. 

BUDGET 💰

• Surf Town Hostel: this is one of the best hostel options if you want to stay in town. It’s an easy walk to the beach and centre, with a social, low-key party vibe. There is a pool, communal kitchen, free breakfast and dorms and private rooms. 

• Casa de Olas Hostel: this is one hostel I would recommend even though it is 3 km (1.8 mi) from town. It’s a very chilled-out vibe with a pool, kitchen, amazing sunset views and jungle location, with nothing to do with the Sunday Funday madness. They offer free shuttles into town each day so you could easily make this a base. 

• Buena Onda Backpackers: a hostel vibe but no dorms or shared bathrooms, this is perfect if you want privacy on a budget. A short walk from town up a steep hill offers stunning views over the bay, while still having easy access to restaurants, the beach etc. There is a communal kitchen, an expansive deck with hammocks to soak up the view and clean and spacious private rooms. 

If you want to stay in a hostel in San Juan del Sur, check if they host any part of the Sunday Funday party. This might be a plus for you if you want to join in (most of the hosting hostels offer discounted tickets for guests), or it might be a huge negative if you were hoping for a peaceful stay! 

MID-RANGE 💰💰

• Looking Good Surf House: this gorgeous clapboard house is like a mature hostel. Rooms are all private with private bathrooms, but there is a communal kitchen, a pool, and a lovely big garden with lots of hangout spaces. It’s very centrally located with free breakfast. 

• The Stone Elephant: a gorgeous, tropical-industrial-style complex of apartments just outside of town. Get the best of both worlds with peace and quiet, but easy access to the heart of the action. The complex has a communal pool and kitchen, and each room has a spacious bedroom and bathroom. 

• HC Liri Hotel: an all-round lovely local hotel, just outside town a few streets back from the beach. It’s got a tropical, homely feel with a nice pool, ocean views and simple but spacious rooms. Breakfast is included as well as free coffee and water. 

BOUTIQUE LUXURY 💰💰💰

• La Santa Maria Resort: a luxury property within easy reach of town, these are serviced apartment-style rooms with a communal infinity pool and stunning ocean views. Some higher room categories have private pools, which would be great if you’re a bigger group.

• Hotel Victoriano: I wouldn’t say the amenities put this hotel in the luxury category, but the price and lack of competitors around San Juan earn it a spot. It gets great reviews, but it definitely has more of a historic, sophisticated vibe than a modern, tropical feel. But, it’s across the road from the beach, has a nice pool, great breakfast and very friendly and helpful staff. 

• TreeCasa: not in downtown SJDS, it’s a 15-minute drive, but it is one of the nicer options in the vicinity. You can visit with a day pass for the day, but if you’re happy to be away from the hustle and bustle, it’s a really lovely base. Rooms are modern, treehouse-style, and there are multiple pools, a stunning yoga deck and a great (if not pricey) restaurant on-site. Free shuttles are available in to town and beaches. 

Things to do in San Juan del Sur

Go surfing

It seems ironic to me that San Juan del Sur is a surf town, but its main beach has no surf. Regardless, this is one of the most popular surf destinations in Nicaragua, you just have to travel a little to the breaks north and south of town. 

(That is if you’re deciding to base yourself in SJDS. If surf is a priority, you might like to consider staying in Playa Maderas instead of/as well as San Juan).

How you approach and plan your surfing in San Juan will depend on your skill level and what you’re hoping to achieve. 

Surf camps

If you’re just starting out with surfing and you’re in San Juan to learn, your best bet is joining an intensive surf camp. 

Most are not in San Juan itself, but they offer inclusive packages with accommodation, meals, surf lessons, gear rental and daily transport to the different breaks. Surf is the number one priority and everything is taken care of for you. 

Dreamsea is one of the most famous surf camps in the area. Coconut Surf is also a good option. 

Surf lessons

If you’re keen to learn but don’t want an intensive, surf-only experience you can stay in San Juan and organise lessons from there when you want to. 

There are dozens of surf schools around town, but most offer group (around $35) or private (around $60) lessons with board rental and transport to whatever break they think is most suitable that day, and for your skill level. 

Some of the better rated surf schools are: 

• Alex’s Surf School
• Hightide Surf School
• Tribu Surf

Surf shuttles and board rentals

If you’re confident enough to hit the waves solo, you can make use of the daily shuttles to surrounding beaches. Casa Oro have daily options to Maderas, Hermosa and Remanso, but most hostels and surf shops also run shuttles to these and other breaks. 

You can expect to pay $5 – $7 for a return shuttle to these beaches. Hermosa is slightly more as the beach is privately owned and there is a $3 entrance fee. 

In terms of board rental, you can rent boards in town in San Juan del Sur from any of the schools mentioned above, or you can rent a board when you arrive at the beach. I’d expect to pay at least $10 USD a day. 

Surf breaks

I’m no surfing expert and the surf schools in town will be able to give you the best advice on the conditions at the time of your visit, but some of the most popular breaks around San Juan are:

• 🌊 Playa Maderas: beginner, intermediate and advanced
• 🌊 Playa Hermosa: mostly beginner and intermediate
• 🌊 Playa Remanso: mostly beginner and intermediate
• 🌊 Playa El Yankee: intermediate and advanced
• 🌊 Playa Escameca: beginner, intermediate and advanced 

Beach hop

This goes hand in hand with surfing, but even if you’re not a surfer (me!), hopping to the different beaches along the Emerald Coast is one of the best things to do in San Juan del Sur. 

The main beach in town is convenient, but not the nicest, so you really want to jump on the shuttles and spend the day relaxing on a prettier stretch of sand. 

Given the shuttles mainly cater to surfers, the most common choices are Maderas, Hermosa and Remanso. All these beaches cater to beginner surfers, which means it is possible to swim if you’re okay with some waves and whitewash. 

Casa Oro has daily shuttles to all these beaches and are pretty convenient timings for a day on the sand. 

• 🏖️ Playa Maderas: $7 round trip | Maderas is the biggest of the ‘other’ beaches and has developed into a mini destination in its own right. There are a handful of restaurants on the beach, sun lounge and umbrella rentals and a long stretch of sand for a walk at low tide. The water can be quite calm at low tide, but even at high, the bigger waves break a while off the shore. The last shuttle back is currently at 6:30 pm, which means you’ll get to enjoy a beautiful sunset here!

• 🏖️ Playa Hermosa: $12 round trip | Playa Hermosa is a huge, vast stretch of sand over 2 km (1.2 mi) long. The beach is privately managed, and access is via the Playa Hermosa Ecolodge Resort. They charge a $3 entry fee, which is included in the shuttle fee charged by Casa Oro, and gives you access to their facilities. They’ve got a great set up with cabanas along the beach to hang out in for the day. The waves are usually small and gentle here, so it’s a nice spot for a swim. 

• 🏖️ Playa Remanso: $7 round trip | Remanso is a small, sheltered cove that is suitable for beginner surfers (aka small waves for swimming). It isn’t a big beach so it can get a little crowded, but there are a handful of restaurants on the sand with chairs and lounges. 

Marvel at the giant Cristo de la Misericordia

San Juan del Sur has its very own version of Brazil’s Christ the Redeemer. 

Cristo de la Misericordia is a giant statue of Jesus perched on a cliff overlooking the bay. The actual height of the statue is reported as anywhere from 15 – 30 metres, so I can’t confirm the exact figure, but it is big. One of the biggest statues of Christ anywhere in the world. 

While the statue is open daily from 8:00 am, the best time to visit is for sunset. Arrive around one hour before to get a gorgeous golden view over the Bay of San Juan del Sur, and the seemingly endless stretch of rugged coves and beaches to the north.

If you’re up for a walk, it takes about 1 hour from town. You can walk along the beach to the northern end of the bay, and cut out at this path, before starting the very steep ascent up to the statue. We enjoyed the walk and would recommend it, it’s only tough right at the end. 

Otherwise you can arrange a taxi from town. Ask them to wait for you. 

Entry is $4 USD / 150 Cordoba for foreigners. 

Spend the day at TreeCasa

TreeCasa is a unique, treehouse style resort on the outskirts of San Juan del Sur. It would be a lovely place to stay for a few days and unwind, but if that’s not in your budget, they offer day passes. 

You can spend the day enjoying their glistening pools, sliding repeatedly down a very fun waterslide and relaxing on a sun lounge with access to their restaurant and bar. They also include free transport to and from downtown San Juan del Sur. 

It’s a nice bougie-on-a-budget experience, and we had a really relaxing day here, especially because we were feeling a bit meh about San Juan overall. 

The day passes have different prices and inclusions depending on the day of the week:

• Monday – Friday (excluding Wednesday): adults $20 | children $15 | fully consumable in their restaurant/bar
• Weekends and holidays: adults $30 ($5 cover fee, $25 consumable) | children $25 ($5 cover fee, $20 consumable)
• Wednesday: free access, no day pass required*

*Unless you’re on a very tight budget, I would avoid Wednesdays. It can get insanely busy. The reality is that you will probably spend $20 – $30 at their restaurant anyway if you’re there for the whole day, so pick a quieter day to enjoy it more. 

They have a ‘welcome centre’ in downtown San Juan which is where their shuttles depart from. The current schedule is: 

• From San Juan del Sur 
  • 11:30 am | 2:30 pm | 4:30 pm | 7:30 pm
• From TreeCasa
  • 11:00 am | 2:00 pm | 4:00 pm | 7:00 pm

Get the latest prices and times on the TreeCasa website

Watch the sunset from the main beach

The calm and mostly waveless Playa San Juan del Sur is often neglected in favour of surf beaches to the north and south of town. 

This crescent shaped bay is full of boats at its southern end, and sadly, we found it quite dirty for swimming. 

However, it does have an excellent sunset vantage point and it’s nice to stroll down in the late afternoon to enjoy a drink on the sand and end the day with a golden glow. 

Spend the day on a catamaran

We ran out of time to do this, but I think it would be an excellent way to find some charm in San Juan del Sur and its beautiful surroundings. As I’ve already vented, the town isn’t great, but the coastline around it is undeniably beautiful so if you’re feeling a bit dissatisifed with San Juan, get out on the water for a day! 

There are a handful of companies that offer a variety of different catamaran experiences. You can join open charters and spend the day cruising the coastline, docking in at different bays and beaches and generally soaking up the sea and sun. If you’re a bigger group you can charter the entire boat, and there’s also the option for surf charters too, where you’ll be dropped off at different breaks. 

Some of the most reputable companies are:

• Nica Sail 
• SALT 
• Tutti di Mare

Join a whale watching boat

Nicaragua isn’t exactly known for whale watching, but like the entire Pacific Coast of Central America, humpback whales migrate through the waters around San Juan del Sur each year. 

From December – April and August – October you can take a whale watching tour to look for humpbacks. There’s also a good chance to see bottlenose and spotted dolphins year-round too. 

Unfortunately we were in San Juan in early May, so we just missed out, but from my research, we would have loved to take a tour with ELI-Scientific. 

This research organisation runs a cetacean conservation program in Nicaragua, and they offer tourists the chance to join their marine biologists who are tracking and researching whales and dolphins around the area. 

You can be sure the experience is safe and ethical, and you can assist with their data collection by tracking the species you see on the tour. 

Find out more and book tours on the ELI-Scientific website. 

Browse the shops

We’re not big shoppers and when you travel long term you don’t really have the room to buy anything, but San Juan del Sur had some super funky surf brands! If you’re in the market for some new clothes, there was some very cool stuff and Brayden picked up a shirt he still wears today. 

We liked browsing: 

• Osci Surf
• We Stay Lost
• Good Times Surf Shop
• Auric Surf
• SanJuanSurf

Where to eat in San Juan del Sur

CAFES & BREAKFAST

• 🏄🏽‍♀️ Ding Repair Cafe: this is number one on every list of places to eat in San Juan del Sur and for good reason. It ticks all the boxes for a vibey surf town cafe. It’s an aesthetic, white-washed space with the typical menu of smoothie bowls, coffee, juices etc. Worth a visit. 

• 🍓 Olhā: healthy options for breakfast and lunch in a very lovely outdoor garden area. We went for lunch a few times and enjoyed their rice and salad bowls, but apparently breakfast is even better! 

• 🥖 Pan Frances: proper, non-sugary bread rejoice! A tiny little French bakery with delicious bread and other sweet treats. Takeaway only but is great to stock up for a beach picnic or a long bus ride. 

• ☕️ Indio del Sur Coffee Shop: a few of our favourite cafes in SJDS have closed since our last visit. This one looks like a great replacement option with proper coffee and nice breaky dishes.

• 🍚 Nica Life – Local Food: if you want a tipico Nica breakfast with gallo pinto, eggs and fried plantain (my fave!) this is the spot.

RESTAURANTS

• 🌮 Nacho: an expat-owned spot, they served up some pretty good Mexican food. Taco Tuesday has cheap tacos, we arrived on Wednesday (bummer) but still found everything quite affordable at full price. All the tacos we tried were good, and the burritos were tasty. Currenty closed (August 2026) while a new owner takes over, the reopening is planned for October 2026.

• 🍛 La Reina del Sur: the best place in town for cheap and tasty local food. It’s a buffet-style restaurant where you choose your protein plus sides for 120 Cordoba. The options are always changing but they cater for meat eaters and vegetarians. 

• 🍔 Dale Pues: very well-rated and popular spot in town. The burgers were big and tasty but it wasn’t the cheapest. Perhaps a little over-rated but the internal courtyard garden is lovely. 

• 🫓 SansibaTastyFood: this German restaurant was a welcome change to Nicaraguan and American food. They have schnitzel, bratwurst, potato salad, falafel and kebabs. 

• 🍜 Gastro Garden: this is a cute little outdoor food court-style place with different restaurant options inside. There are burgers, Thai food, pizza, Indian and all other types of cuisine! Great to share a taste of everything. 

🍦 Kiss Me is a nice ice cream shop for dessert!

San Juan del Sur Nicaragua travel tips

🇳🇮 Get more Nicaragua travel tips in our Nicaragua travel guide

• 🌤️ Best time to visit: if you’re considering weather alone, the dry season, from November – April, is the best time to visit to avoid the rains and humidity. By the end of the dry season, the temperatures soar and the entire Pacific Coast feels very dry and dusty, so keep that in mind if you’re hoping to experience lush jungle. We were there in late April and I definitely attribute some of our dislike to the intense heat, dust and dryness everywhere.
  
  I would avoid San Juan during holidays, and if you’re planning to visit over a weekend, be prepared for crowds of domestic tourists and the onslaught of Sunday Funday backpackers.
  
  If surfing is your priority, the wet season from May – October has the biggest swell, although the beaches around San Juan del Sur are pretty consistent year-round. 

• 🗓️ How long to stay: we spent 3 nights in San Juan del Sur, plus 3 nights in nearby Playa Maderas and that was plenty for us. We could have stayed longer in Maderas, but we were pretty ready to leave San Juan del Sur. It depends if you’re planning to base yourself in SJDS and explore the beaches and surf breaks from there, or you’re staying in another beach as well (my recco). Just don’t assume you’ll want a ton of time here. Maybe you’ll love it but a lot of people don’t. 

• 🫶🏼 Safety: San Juan del Sur is a safe, but sketchy town. We didn’t feel unsafe at all, but there were some unsavoury characters and we felt quite a seedy vibe around town, especially at night. I don’t think I’d be comfortable wandering around by myself at night, but I never felt like I was in any real danger. It’s just not a nice feel in our opinion. 

• 🗣️ Language: Spanish is the official language in Nicaragua and is, of course, widely spoken in San Juan del Sur. Given how touristy it is anyone involved in the hostel/backpacker scene probably speaks English, but outside of that, a lot of tourists are domestic so don’t assume everyone can speak it. 

• 💰 Currency: the official currency of Nicaragua is the Nicaraguan Córdoba, however, you will see a lot of prices quoted in USD. San Juan del Sur was a mix, where some venues price in Cordoba and others in USD. You can pay with either currency and most big establishments around town will accept card, but there may be a % fee attached. 

• 🏧 ATMs: most ATMs in Nicaragua have the option to withdraw Córdoba or USD. I recommend paying in Córdoba where possible as the rate is generally better, but it’s always a good idea to have a stash of USD too.
  
  We weren’t able to find an ATM that didn’t charge fees, and we were always charged the equivalent of $6 USD (either 220 Córdoba if we were withdrawing local currency, or $6 if we withdrew USD). Apparently, some people have luck getting free withdrawals from Banco Lafise or ATMs in the BancaRed network which include BDF, Avanz and Ficohsa. Do note that some ATMs only accept Visa, not MasterCard. BAC and Banpro are the most common across the country. You will find all of these banks with ATMs in San Juan del Sur.

• 📱 Phone & SIM Cards: like many Central American countries, Claro and Tigo are the most popular phone providers in Nicaragua.
  
  If you’re coming across the border from Costa Rica you’ll want to set your phone up here. There is a Claro store in town, otherwise most tiendas or phone shops can sell and set up a SIM card for you. If that sounds way too complicated, you can get an eSIM. I recommend Nomad as their data inclusions are much higher than other companies.

• 🥑 Groceries: the biggest supermarket in SJDS is Pali, which is a 5-minute drive from the centre. If you don’t want to go that far or just need a few things, there are smaller tiendas dotted around town, as well as some good fruit and veg stores. I’ve pinned a couple we liked in our Nicaragua Google Map. The Mercado Municipal is a good spot for groceries too. 

• 💧 Can you drink the water: it’s safest not to drink the water in San Juan del Sur or anywhere else in Nicaragua. Your accommodation should have large garrafónes or jugs with purified water. Please don’t buy single-use plastic bottles. 

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Final thoughts: San Juan del Sur Nicaragua

After three nights in SJDS, we were busting to get out of there and cross the border to Costa Rica. 

It wasn’t all bad though, and I hope this post has helped point out the nicer, more wholesome activities to do in and around San Juan del Sur Nicaragua. 

If you’re feeling like San Juan might not be your vibe, you don’t have to skip the area entirely. Just choose to base yourself in nearby Playa Maderas instead, which we did and enjoyed A LOT more. 

As a tropical, clear water, island lover, nowhere on Nicaragua’s Pacific Coast even came close to what we felt about the Corn Islands, which were literally paradise on earth. But that’s just my personal preference and not exactly a reason why San Juan is overhyped. 

If you visit, I’d love to hear what you thought about San Juan. I truly hope you have a different experience than we did, and maybe this little town will click better with you than it did for us. 

If you’re following our Nicaragua itinerary, your next stop after San Juan del Sur will most likely be across the border to Costa Rica if you’re continuing south, or back to the airport in Managua. If you’re heading north, set your sights on the magic island of Ometepe. 

MORE NICARAGUA PACIFIC COAST POSTS

• Playa Maderas, Nicaragua Travel Guide: Best SJDS Alternative
• Popoyo, Nicaragua Travel Guide: Surf, Sand and Sunsets