Where to Stay in Ometepe, Nicaragua: Best Areas + Hotels

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Planning a visit to Ometepe in Nicaragua and have no idea which part of the island to stay on? You’re not alone!

Ometepe is a magical island made up of two volcanoes in Lake Nicaragua. It was one of our favourite places in Nicaragua, but choosing where to stay in Ometepe is tough. 

On a map, Ometepe doesn’t look that big, but this island is huge! There are multiple different areas to stay in, and driving around the island takes more than 2 hours. 

This means choosing the right place to stay is a very important decision!

Ending up in the wrong part of the island will not only mean you’re driving hours every day, but worse, that you might not experience the natural Ometepe magic. 

I spent weeks deliberating which part of the island was the best place to base ourselves. We narrowed down to four possibilities: Balgue, Merida, Santo Domingo and Moyogalpa. 

I considered things like access, transport, amenities, proximity to activities and restaurants, as well as natural features like volcano views, lake access, sunset vantage point, natural feel and wildlife. We eventually landed on Merida which was perfect for us, but might not suit everybody.

In this post, I’ll share all my deliberations, weighing up the pros and cons of each of these four areas to help you decide where to stay in Ometepe. 

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Getting around Ometepe

Before you can even start to think about where to stay in Ometepe, you have to decide how you plan to get around the island. 

I will stress again, it is huge! And all the best things to do, different towns etc. are spread far and wide across the entire island. 

I’ve got extensive details about all the transport options in my Ometepe travel guide, but I would highly recommend renting some kind of vehicle. Whether that’s a car, ATV, motorbike or scooter. 

This will give you complete freedom and means the decision on where to stay is not so crucial as you can easily travel anywhere for food, activities, amenities etc. 

Best areas to stay in Ometepe

Balgue

• 🌋 Best for: natural vibes but convenient amenities, good food
• ⛴️ Distance from ferry terminal: 50 minutes

Balgue is the best of both worlds when it comes to deciding where to stay in Ometepe. 

The area is known for its permaculture farms and eco-friendly accommodations. It’s got a green natural, feel, but still a decent cluster of amenities, some good accommodation options and amazing restaurants (seriously, amazing!).

I truly believe that no matter where you stay in Ometepe you should rent some kind of transport, but you could get away without it in Balgue for a few days. There are some sights within walking (or cycling) distance.

There are a handful of motorbike rental agencies around the area, so instead of needing to rent a vehicle for your entire stay, you could rent day-to-day as needed.

Balgue is within easy reach of the beaches of Playa Santa Cruz and Playa Santo Domingo, Ojo de Agua, Reserva de Biosfera Ometepe, Volcan Maderas, Playa El Peru and Mangos and Volcan Maderas. It is a great base for most of the top activities you’re likely to do on the island. 

If you’re not interested in being entirely remote and off-grid in nearby Merida and would prefer to be able to wander down the street to a restaurant for dinner, Balgue is an excellent choice. It still feels lush and natural in most parts, and although it is busier than Merida, it’s not as commercial or developed as Moyogalpa. 

There are some very well-known restaurants and accommodations in Balgue. Chances are you’ve come across El Pital Chocolate Paradise, Cafe Campestre (we ate here five times—it was so good!), and Totoco Eco Resort during your research – they’re all located in Balgue. 

PROS 👍🏼

• Very centrally located to many of the best things to do in Ometepe on the Maderas side of the island and the isthmus 
• Incredible dining scene with fantastic restaurants and cafes (Cafe Campestre I love you!)
• Natural feel with volcano views and some access to the lake 
• Enough amenities to keep most travellers happy with a handful of small tiendas and produce stores and vehicle rental agencies

CONS 👎🏼

• The town is quite spread out along the main road with different pockets of accommodations and restaurants 
• It is a popular place to stay, particularly for backpackers so it’s not exactly serene, but it is definitely quieter than Moyogalpa and because things are spread out it still feels peaceful
• I still think you need to rent some kind of vehicle to get around easily and enjoy yourself but it’s not absolutely essential if you’re happy to walk decent lengths around town or rent a bicycle 
• The roads are in mixed condition. The main road is paved but some of the side roads are in very poor condition, many going uphill which is challenging on a scooter/motorbike

Merida

• 🌋 Best for: nature, seclusion, lake access, sunsets, volcano views
• ⛴️ Distance from ferry terminal: 1 hour

When I say Merida, what I really mean is the remote area on the west coast of the Maderas side of the island. It includes the popular beaches Playa El Peru and Playa Mangos and the very tiny town of Merida. 

This is where we stayed in Ometepe and we were so happy with our decision! We spent a lot of time deliberating and assessing what we wanted most from our time on the island, and we came down to nature, volcano views and lake access. Merida had it all. 

This is one of the most remote places to stay on the island, and it’s the perfect example of typical rural Ometepe life. It’s primarily an agricultural area with fields full of crops, paddocks of cows and horses and dusty roads.

You really must have your own transport to stay in Merida. There are very few restaurants and amenities here and the bus only passes a few times per day. The only way staying here is feasible is if you’ve got a car, ATV or motorbike. 

In saying that, the roads here are unpaved gravel, and most of the side streets are pretty rough and bumpy, so an ATV or motorbike is a better choice than a scooter. 

What the Merida area lacks in amenities and convenience it makes up for with stunning volcano views, beautiful sunsets, a calm lakeshore for swimming and easy access to the Rio Istian to go kayaking. 

It is so quiet and peaceful, a true natural escape. We enjoyed watching birds and monkeys from our balcony each morning and it was exactly the magical, off-grid experience we hoped to have in Ometepe. 

I’d recommend finding accommodation with kitchen amenities so you can at least cook some meals for yourself. There are not too many options for food around Merida, and we had most of our meals in Balgue (a 15-minute drive). There is a tiny tienda in Merida but you’ll want to bring groceries from Moyogalpa, or at least Balgue which has a couple of slightly bigger stores. 

PROS 👍🏼

• Stunning sunsets over the lake and Volcan Concepcion 
• Very quiet, peaceful natural feel with few crowds and little development 
• Calm beaches for swimming in the lake, including the popular Playa El Peru and Playa Mangos
• Still within easy reach of Balgue if you have your own transport for meals and other amenities 
• Within easy reach of San Ramon Waterfall and the Volcan Maderas hike 

CONS 👎🏼

• You really need to rent a vehicle to stay here and enjoy it
• There aren’t as many accommodation choices here, and not as many hostel/budget options 
• The internet and phone service is very weak in this area, so it’s really an off-grid stay
• You need to think strategically about meals, groceries, cash etc. as there are none of these amenities in Merida 

Santo Domingo

• 🌋 Best for: lake beaches, hotels, holiday feel
• ⛴️ Distance from ferry terminal: 40 minutes

Santo Domingo encompasses the long, sandy stretch of coastline on the isthmus of the island, Playa Santo Domingo. 

At its southern end, Playa Santo Domingo runs seamlessly into Playa Santa Cruz. For all intents and purposes, I’m lumping these two beaches together, but do know that Santa Cruz is a little more hippy/backpacker being closer to Balgue. 

This area has the most traditional holiday destination vibe, and it’s a popular spot for Nicaraguan families. There is a proper sandy beach, simple resort-style accommodations and a small strip of restaurants to cater to visitors. 

If you’re imagining a swimming pool overlooking the lake, this is where you’ll find it.

This is the windy side of the island, so we found the beaches here quite choppy, but the water is warm. You can stroll along the sand for miles with an excellent view of Volcan Concepcion. 

It doesn’t exactly feel like a town, just a slightly disparate cluster of tourist accommodations and amenities with the main road running through the centre of it. There is one ATM, a small grocery shop and a handful of rental agencies here too, so it’s not entirely remote or inconvenient. 

We didn’t love the area, not more than Balgue or Merida, but it is a very central location. 

It’s quite near to Ojo de Agua and Reserva de Biosfera Ometepe, two of the best things to do in Ometepe. We saw lots of monkeys around the biosphere reserve, which sits right behind Santo Domingo, so this area does feel quite natural. 

Unless you’re planning a very relaxing beachside getaway, I think you’d probably want transport if you stayed here, although it’s not absolutely essential like it is in Merida. 

You could easily walk up and down the main street to find food, and the bus does pass by a lot more frequently than in Balgue or Merida, so it is feasible to use as a transport method. 

PROS 👍🏼

• Centrally located on the isthmus of the island with easy access to the Concepcion side or the Maderas side
• Long, sandy beaches for swimming and strolling with beautiful volcano views
• Very near to Ojo de Agua and Reserva de Biosfera Ometepe, two popular activities 
• Not too far from nature, with jungle and wildlife within easy reach 

CONS 👎🏼

• The main road runs right through the area so it feels busy and noisy at times 
• Not a lot of food options
• Windy side of the island so the beaches are quite choppy and churned up
• Being the most popular holiday destination for families and locals, prices are a little higher here 

Moyogalpa

• 🌋 Best for: convenience, amenities, affordability 
• ⛴️ Distance from ferry terminal: in town

Moyogalpa is the commercial hub of Ometepe. It’s where the biggest and busiest ferry port is, and for 99% of travellers, it is where you will arrive and depart from the island. 

It’s a cute enough town, but it’s just that – a town. 

It’s developed with amenities like ATMs, a big supermarket, vehicle rental agencies, tour agencies, and lots of accommodations and restaurants. So it wins on convenience, but it lacks the natural magic of Ometepe. 

There’s not a lot of access to the lake (besides the busy ferry port), it’s not natural or jungly at all and while there are volcano views, they’re partly concealed in the town.

In saying that, there is a pocket of properties a 10 – 15 minute walk north of town that has a more natural and secluded feel, so it is possible to find the best of both worlds here. 

Just be very careful to check exactly where your accommodation is located as many places that come up when searching for ‘Moyogalpa’ are quite far out of town (10+ minutes drive). Then you’re back in the same predicament of not having access to amenities without transport. If that’s the situation, then I’d suggest staying in Merida, not Moyogalpa! 

If you’re thinking of staying here, my advice is to not make it your only stay.

I think it is very convenient to arrive and depart from the island, and it’s also great if you’re planning to hike Volcan Concepcion. The trailhead is only 10 minutes from town, so you can get a really early start. 

But I don’t think staying here and only here will show you the real magic of Ometepe. It’s best complimented with a few nights on the Maderas side of the island to sightsee and have a more natural, lakeside vibe. 

PROS 👍🏼

• The ferry terminal is located in Moyogalpa so this is the most convenient place to stay in terms of getting to and from the island 
• Accommodation is abundant here and is generally more affordable than other areas on the island if you’re on a tight budget 
• Convenient amenities like ATMs, supermarkets and vehicle rental agencies 
• Lots of good restaurants, including some really affordable local spots
• Easy access to Volcan Concepcion if you’re planning to hike it
• If you don’t want to rent a vehicle and plan to use a combination of public transport/tours/taxis/private transfers to see the island, Moyogalpa is the best base 

CONS 👎🏼

• Not a lot of lake access or beaches in town besides the ferry terminal 
• It’s a busy, bustling town that doesn’t feel very natural at all and doesn’t have the magic vibe you can find in other parts of Ometepe 
• It’s not really near any of the other attractions on the island which tend to be around the isthmus or Volcan Maderas side 

So where should you stay in Ometepe?

I hope these summaries and pros and cons of each area has given you a clear, stand out choice. But if you’re still humming and aahing, this is what I would choose if we were to visit again:

• 🌞 Merida: if you love nature, are happy with seclusion and don’t need a social vibe, and are happy to rent an ATV and travel a little further for meals and amenities
• 🌿 Balgue: if you want restaurants and amenities on-hand, are happy to rent a scooter for some or all of your stay and would prefer a bit more buzz and activity

If you’re arriving from the island late or departing early, and/or you want to hike Volcan Concepcion, add a couple of nights in Moyogalpa to either of these stays. Just choose somewhere more natural on the outskirts of town, but still within walking distance of restaurants, shops etc.

Planning a trip to Ometepe

Planning a trip to Ometepe? Don’t forget to read our Ometepe travel guide too. It covers all the important info you need to know about the island, like getting there and away on the ferry, how to get around, the best places to eat and other handy tips to get your bearings.  

🌋 Everything you need to know about Ometepe, Nicaragua

Final thoughts: Where to stay in Ometepe

I hope this post has helped you decide where to stay in Ometepe, and which area will suit YOU best. 

We were so happy we decided on Merida and it was the perfect base for us, but I know it wouldn’t suit everyone, being a bit more remote. 

No matter where you stay, I’m sure you’ll love Ometepe, but basing yourself in the right place is guaranteed to elevate your experience and make your time on this magical island even better! 

Don’t forget to read my Ometepe travel guide too for all the key logistical info, and my things to do in Ometepe post for all the best sights and activities around the island. 

MORE OMETEPE POSTS

• Ometepe, Nicaragua Travel Guide
• Best Things to Do in Ometepe, Nicaragua